Originally Posted by Rucksta
The outer I've only seen in two sizes thick & thin 0.15 & 0.7 mm I think they were.
Despite the listings this is all I've been able to get my hands on.
Fortunatly there is a stack of them and they seem to pound thinner with use so I can always get close emough by swapping in new for old. 2 x 0.15 would be a good start.
Last I bought were $8.00AUD each onshore.
I'd leave the inner shims alone as they set the lash on the crownwheel & pinion and I'm not qualified to do that.
You may be better with bearing blue than me but even the input seal is a challenge I don't tackle but the big seal is easy enough but you'd know if you needed it as it would visibly leak oil.
Unless you remove the small bearing or the bush there should be no need to play in here if it was set up right and it's not broken or eliptical on the bush / small bearing as suggested.
If the FD required more than a simple outer shimming I send mine of to Ray Peake for a complete job.
Be aware there are at least two diffenent bearing setups on G/S FDs
Mine is an 09/82 and has the brake cam shaft running in a brass bush at each end. Later versions have a tube running right throug the two halves. Extenaly there is little difference but the early type appears to have a 'cap' over where an axle would go through on the right hand side (if it had an axle) later models have what looks like a continuos casting instead of the cap.
Mine has a steel stub axle and a tapered small bearing,
Later versions have an alloy stub axle and a needle bearing. This is based on a total sample of two final dribves I've seen the inside of.
A popular modification was cut additional grooves in the brake cam shaft to use double 'O' rings each side.
Factory did this shortly before the change in the drives oabout the same time the rubber inserts went into the forward brake spring
From the previous owner apparantly the final drive did have a slow leak- I never really saw a fresh leak as I have hardly ridden this bike, all I saw was the old remnants of a leak on the right side of the final drive.
Originally Posted by Sibbo
The timing has to be out mate, those things are a doddle to start if things are right .The right maggy ? How about installing a coil if all else fails ...a few of the Brit bike boys do it . A better spark at low revs .
Good Luck !
the timing is what I have been more and more suspecting. The maggy is the correct maggy for this engine from a bunch of spare parts I bought for the engine- it is just an optional improved sprung impulse-starting maggy. Spark is bright and good, heaps better than the old one. Ie, it should be good enough and something else is the problem.
Here's the relevant manual mention
The problem with setting the timing (I tried last time) is where the maggy is- right up the back of the engine hard to reach well- let alone get your head in to look at close enough at the back of the maggy to tell when the points close and open- that and the 'nut' on the maggy drive shaft is actually just one of those pathetic little shallow slotted screws that are made to not work and this screw is quite seized in place. And of course the lack of timing marks on my flywheel... all fun and games.
If I can free the the 'nut', and figure out the timing mark (hmmm, I do have spare flywheels...) then with my third and fourth hands use a torch and a mirror to tell when the points open and close I might just be able to do it!
Big battery is going to be key though. Cranking this thing gets old quick.