Originally Posted by Floridafeeger
I am on a 1982 BMW R100RT - and I am looking for what you posted - fantastic and the videos made it all real for me !
Good deal, Floridafeeger. That's why I posted it, to help everyone else out. Even after a few days' research, I think I got really lucky finding these bulbs - they are terrific.
If you are worried about your flasher, the Kisan SM-1 would eliminate that worry for you and offer a bunch of other goodies.
Originally Posted by coastranger
I am running the run-n-lights in my 85 RT adn would be interested to see a write up or something on installing the resistors so you can use the stock flasher set up
however the brand you are using seems pretty spendy when compared to very like ones at fleabay, but at least you have a real report on quality from your testimonial and video
( would also like to see a writeup and parts list for installing a 4 way flasher system in my 85)
Coastranger - I initially thought you might have a K bike, but saw that you have a monolever R80RT... not sure on the flasher relay situation on that era bike (I skipped Monolever and went from twin-shock to Paralever). Check your stock flasher to see how many pins it has, and match that up with what Kisan offers since they will be your best bet for 4-way flasher action. Or give them a call, they are really helpful. If you have a 3-pin flasher, you can use the SM-1 as quoted above.
Superbrightleds.com also has 1157 bulbs that you would need with the Run-N-Lites conversion sockets that you have. Or, if you decide to use a Signal Minder, you could strip the Run-N-Lites sockets and just use the 1156 bulbs.
***Info below is provided PRIOR to my testing of the stock BMW flasher w/o resistors, so I am assuming resistors would be called for on a stock flasher for my
bike - YMMV depending on model and year, and modifications. The Run-N-Lites sockets may pull enough juice to fool a stock flasher***
If you want to stick with the stock flasher, the resistors that superbrightleds.com offers come with Scotchlock style wire taps that don't require splicing or soldering. You just wire the resistor inline with each bulb's circuit (across the hot and ground wire). More info here http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...dresistor.html
and here http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf
. Mind the note that these resistors get hot (like the incandescent bulb normally would), so you have to mount these resistors away from plastic. That might be tough on a motorcycle. Plus, once you install the resistors, most of the benefit of using the LEDs in the first place is gone. Resistors emulate the power draw of an incandescent bulb, so you won't be saving any amps. You will get more light, and *hopefully* longer life, but if the charging system is your worry then resistors won't help.
As far as the price, from what I've gathered, with LEDs you gets what you pays for. I liked the fact that the ones I found were very similar to the ones Eurotech offered since they offered a 2 year warranty on them. If they offered that kind of warranty, who was I to question? Other types of LED bulbs (urethane coated round types) don't seem to cast as much light as this style (LED experts - what is this type of flat LED called? ***EDIT: These are called SMD, or Surface Mount Device, more specifically, High Output SMD***). And from others I've spoken to about them, $25 each is a real good compromise on price vs. performance. Remember, you may never have to replace this bulb again!