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Old 01-02-2012, 08:01 PM   #224
JoelWisman
Beastly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: STL, MO, USA
Oddometer: 1,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
In my manual it shows two @ 1.5 wires -- I'll "assume" (yes I know) that the 1.5 means 1.5mm wire diameter...
1.5mm is roughly equal to 14 AWG and for the length of the run back to the battery 2 conductors @ 14 AWG or even two @ 1.25mm would be adequate ....

I'm not sure where all the ground wires get bonded together ... I don't think it is AT the negative terminal,
but wherever it is... as new as these bikes are, I would not think that this would be the problem....

... and ... I'll have lost all faith in German Engineering if I find out they were relying on a ground path being available thru the heatsink of the regulator .... so I'm not sure where that leaves us, but I think I'd rather be over here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163155
I do still have a factory wiring diagram, as well as the fact that I have pulled one of our R/R's apart that took impact damage from a fork lift. There is ABSOLUTELY NO electrical connection between anything in the R/R and the anodized case. ZIP ZILCH NADA NONE. Removing anodization serves absolutely no purpose but to waist time. It also does not particularly lower the temperature of the R/R to grind on it and use thermal paste because it's bonded to a part of the frame that gets hotter then the regulator. The regulator sheds heat by radiation and some convection. Further, I have yet to see or hear of a single regulator for the F8 electrically fail, so not sure why we would care anyway.

As to adding more ground wires or improving the ground path, (which is from the R/R to about mid harness, spliced to the brown wire between main ground from battery and brown wire that grounds engine near starter) why?

From a stator current perspective, if this did anything at all, the only thing it could do is increase stator current by lowering load resistance. If the theory is that a poor ground is causing voltage to climb in the stator, thats true. If excessive voltage causing partial discharges and flashover of the stator is our issue then a series regulator should kill the stator much quicker.

I suspect all the theories on other forums that regulator wiring is the cause of stator failures is 100% wrong.

The regulator portion of the R/R can cause stator failure by shorting one winding, but even this is super unlikely cause usually this type of failure would blow the diodes into outer-space long before the stator felt it.

The regulator reducing load resistance by pulling the voltage too low could cause problems but only if the stator / rotor is designed wrong and can't operate at full power output.

Open circuit connections to the regulator could cause it IF the stator can't handle open circuit voltages and certainly this is a hard thing for stators to cope with unless designed for it but with this would go flickering lights. Further, theres a lot of power going through these circuits. If theres a bad connection anywhere in the stator, R/R or R/R to bike wiring, that bad connection is really likely to burn up and produce somewhere between a cloud of smoke and a fire.

Interesting theories these other forums are putting forward but I'd bet a shiny penny that they are 100% wrong about this one.
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Owned to date. Honda Aero 50, Honda Elite 80, Honda Elite 250x2, Suzuki Katana, Suzuki RF600, Yamaha YZF1000R, Kymco Xciting 500, Suzuki GS500, Suzuki Burgman 650, BMW F800GSx2, BMW S1000RR, Aprilia Scarabeo 200, Aprilia Caponord, Aprilia Sportcity 250
I love and miss you Jeneca and I'm sorry.
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