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Old 01-25-2012, 12:11 AM   #72
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: la la land
Oddometer: 29
dual ATE and handle bar MC rock

Interesting thought on the piston - not sure what it means but checked the gap between the rotor and the outside (movable) brake shoe and it was between .006-.008" at rest. Have not seen that value anywhere to compare to so does it seem correct? May check it again after some riding to see if it changes with feel of the brake.

As to my saga, as Scotty would say 'Captain, there be brakes here!' After another night of lever engaged rest this AM the pressure felt pretty good - progressively more pressure as lever was pulled with max about 1/2 inch from grip. Went for a ride and what a world of difference from before the makeover - front brake grips with authority and the bike stops. Beautiful day so rode the coast highway a bit and one of my favorite canyons to test the brakes on down hill twisties. All was good - I am another believer in the dual ATE, handlebar MC combo.

A few comments in case someone is planning this; I might consider the 14mm over the 13mm MC to give a bit more solid feel and less possibility of pulling the lever all the way to the grip, although the 13mm seems to work just fine so far,
Also really make sure the bleeder valve seats on the old calipers are really smooth. They looked clean and I wire brushed them but still I needed to tighten the speedbleeders more that I would normally do to stop a small amount of fluid from oozing out with repeated braking. Not a big deal and this may be in part due to the speedbleeder shape but when they are apart I would recommend doing more surface prep or even honing to get it really smooth.

Just a few pics (still sans the S fairing. - sorry for those caught in a bad winter (like my friends in Birmingham) and not to gloat - but 70 deg in Jan and empty canyons = motorcycle heaven.

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