Seems you had a great adventure! Very nice and detailed report... It reminded me from a trip I took some years ago with a friend who knows Baja well. I also did the same loop, staed at canon de Guadalupe, went to Gonzaga Bay, Cocos and Laguna Hansen. I am a native Spanish speaker as I was raised in Guadalajara, but have lived too many years in California. I was also kind of hesitant about my trip, but all went well. Actually, when we arrived to Cocos's, he sent us on our way as some one had stoled a smal air plane in the area and the police and military where looking for the acomplice... Trucks with machine guns arrived, but nobody bothered us... We left all excited feeling as James Bond.. Lol. Riding from Santo Thomas to El Rosario through dirt, we mis-calculated the distance a rode very technical muddy trail in the middle of the black pitch night running out of gasoline (we barely made it, transferring some gas from another bike), very hungry, and no water... But we made it and had lots of fun! Thanks for bringing back some good memories!