Originally Posted by JRWooden
I"m going to wait for more education .... lord knows I need some
I would have thought that raising the output voltage (it it worked) by supersizing the wires would add life
to the stator as the current flow thru the stator would be reduced ...
Raising the output voltage by supersizing the R/R output wires, yes, you will slightly reduce stator current.
My past measurements indicate this might be good for as much as 0.11 volts, cause thats all the drop there is in the wires from the R/R to the battery. You may also get unintended consequences as the big culprit of under voltage with the K7X is that the stator rings the R/R mildly and the R/R sensing circuit is not buffered and there fore clamps on the spikes rather then the RMS as it should. But it may work for some additional voltage. Heck, if it reduces the ringing of the R/R sensing circuit, it may be good for more voltage then that. Modeling voltage ringing is hella hard, so the only way most people do it is to try it and find out.
Note that these wires are unfused so be cautions mucking with them / adding parallel paths for current and fire.
Supersizing the AC wires from the stator to R/R removes external resistance before the shunt and will heat the stator that much more and won't affect voltage (unless it reduces ringing) as regulation happens downstream of this. It will increase current slightly, but at the cost of shortening the life of an already short lived stator.
No one has said "Joel, what the heck is ringing?" But I will answer anyway lol
This is a K7X ringing:
We are looking at the output of the R/R at the precise instant it stops clamping (the R/R is a duty cycle on/off affair. Basically the voltage bounces as the SCR's open. We are looking at a tiny division of time (20 microseconds per division).This is normal though fairly large on the K7X. What is abnormal is the R/R fitted to the K7X, at least the one that does not end with "SC", senses this super brief spike and clamps for it which is stupid because SCR's are not NEARLY fast enough to clamp this brief of a transient. The ringing is small at idle and much larger at RPM, hence voltage goes down as RPM is raised.
Ringing is almost impossible to model and occurs when it does however bad it does in a given circuit. It is not harmful at this magnitude, but your R/R needs to ignore it and regulate on RMS average voltage, not the peaks of ringing.
Put a huge choke around the R/R output and a capacitor in parallel and it kills the ring where upon the RPM voltage becomes the same as idle. This is not practicable as the choke required adds weight and the capacitor is big.
Interestingly, I have an SC regulator in my possession and it does seem to ignore the ring.
I am about to do the true CCA test on the last of 3 batteries in my possession, AKA something related to this thread :p
Here is a pic:
of desolating the 5 month old battery in preparation for hammering the hell out of it.
CTEK 4.3 charger I am in love with in desolate mode applying 15.7 volts to the battery. Deka AGM battery construction, like Odyssey is extremely tolerant to high voltage for desulfating. Note, the battery is only drawing 0.23 amps. It is mildly gassing and not venting at all confirmed with flammable gas sniffer. Try this on a Yuasa AGM and at least you will dry out the battery and may even get to see it gizz electrolyte.
Soon as this next test is done, I will be posting video of true CCA of 3 comparison batteries (Deka ETX14, Yuasa YTX12, and Shorai LFX18). I also began testing a Shorai LFX21 but aborted because it is not going back to Shorai and I didn't want to hurt it.
Loads of time consuming work but the results are more eye opening then capacity tests so hopefully the results will be meaningful.
All for now....