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Old 03-30-2012, 04:59 PM   #102
JoelWisman OP
Beastly Adventurer
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: STL, MO, USA
Oddometer: 1,392
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Ok, well then carry on.

Can't for the life of me understand why anyone would want one unless they were racing.

Light is good if you need it.
Charge is good when you need it.
Dead battery is bad always.
Of the bikes towed into gateway BMW during my time there that were R1200GS/GSA, F800GS, F650GS, and G650GS....

About 1/4 of the tow ins had batteries that failed entirely or were at least dead, some mid trip out of the blue.

Fully about half of all those models towed in had issues totally unrelated to the battery or charging system BUT would fire right up when I hooked a booster battery or boost charger to them. The typical culprit was stuck fuel pumps, stuck fuel injectors, partially plugged injectors, or a sensor that was drifting out of parameters making the bike impossible to start with the stock battery.

First while cranking I would feel the fuel pump hose to figure out if the fuel system was pressurizing, listen for the injector opening click and smell the raw exhaust for clues on fuel mixture. 60 seconds later I usually knew what was wrong or had at least greatly narrowed the possibilities, so next I would attach a large jump box or the big boost charger always in my stall and wham, start the bike right up as if nothing was wrong.

I could do this because stuck pumps and injectors usually unstick when you have more voltage during cranking. Poor starting fuel mixture from poor injector patterns, wet plugs or drifting sensors can usually be overcome by cranking the engine faster and the hotter spark the ignition system makes when starting voltage is higher. I already knew if the fuel pump or injectors were stuck just by feeling and listening, but diagnosing sensors and injector patterns is much easier with the bike idling.

Of the remaining 25% of bikes that wouldn't start with more starting voltage, usually leaving the bike key on for long stretches and cranking repeatedly was required to conduct diagnosis and find the culprit.

In a dealership, getting more cranking voltage is a wall receptacle away and leaving the key on is no issue with a charger attached.

On touring or especially adventure bikes, more CCA and Amp Hours are probably the single most likely thing to save you from a hike. The battery is the very first thing I have upgraded in every car and motorcycle I have ever owned. Because of this, at 38 years of age, I have only needed a tow truck twice. Once for a blown engine and once for a blown clutch.

My diagnostic skills play into this but a powerful battery gave me the time to use them, and reduced the number of times I had to use those skills at all.

The stock Yuasa/Excide F800 and R1200 batteries suck and stand a good chance of stranding you. The stock Deka battery is very good, but more is better and thats what I'm looking for in these LiFePo4 batteries, without success so far, but at least 2 more brands to go before I know.

What does everyone think, make sense? or do I sound full of bull lol
Owned to date. Honda Aero 50, Honda Elite 80, Honda Elite 250x2, Suzuki Katana, Suzuki RF600, Yamaha YZF1000R, Kymco Xciting 500, Suzuki GS500, Suzuki Burgman 650, BMW F800GSx2, BMW S1000RR, Aprilia Scarabeo 200, Aprilia Caponord, Aprilia Sportcity 250
I love and miss you Jeneca and I'm sorry.
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