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Old 04-13-2012, 05:34 PM   #12
ebrabaek OP
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
Oddometer: 4,873
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post

1) Per the wiring schematic in the Haynes manual the four wires (two hot and two ground) do indeed go JUST (directly) to the battery and do not wander off to the ZFE or other places. I speculate the same as you ... the needed more current carrying capacity and didn't want to use a single heavier gauge wire as it would make it harder to route the harness.
Yay.... Mystery solved...... Thank you sir.

2) I'm sure the stock regulator got very hot... I've never put my hand on it...
I'm sure that the MOSFET regulator still gets hot ... maybe not AS hot...
So I'm thinking that with the metal bracket bolted to the frame that it does act to extend the heatsink function somewhat .... not sure how big the effect is, but maybe you don't want to use a composite bracket?
You are right that the composite is like an insulator, but mind you the stock bracket is not touching the stock R/R , because of the little nut inserts... It's like 1/2 mm gap.... Plus there is a big hole cut out in the center.. Mine will mimic that.

Just because I could, when I took my R/R off to get the P/N off the back I re-assembled it with heatsink grease between the R/R and the bracket and also the bracket to the frame.... I know I know ... don't go all on me ... it only took a minute.
I personally believe that most if not all the heat is dissipated through the front heat sink. For the little time I ran did not get very hot. I did not do any heat testing on the R/R, but have been assured that this unit will hold up to the heat quite fine. This unit is fused at 30 amps. Max draw of the stator is about 28 amps at full screw. I believe this units origin is Japan.

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