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Old 05-28-2012, 09:12 AM   #25
simonpig OP
packin' heat
 
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 943
You don't need to take the valve cover off to replace the OEM tensioner. The crank end is VERY secure, and the cam gear end will stay put when you remove it. Just pull the stater and install the new tensioner turn in until theres a slight resistance and then fine tuning with the bike running.

Just make sure you don't forget turn in the adjuster to take up enough slack first before electric starting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedaha View Post
Great Documentation simonpig, I thought it was going to be close re starter motor clearance.
Great tensioner Markk53, sign me up for one, I'll discuss this with Email.

Typically how much spare thread would you need for adjustments, I guess your just taking the wear out of the guides, more than the stretch out of the chain. (Unless you have an F model that is.)

I'm Happy to order one with the allen key end, all I'd ask is don't lock tight it on, I'll lock tight at this end after the fit is successfull. (I don't mind if I have to file the end square with a dab of paint, after tensioned)

Also I can take my valve cover off (want to check clearances anyway) and observe the timing mark etc, to see if this is risky to do blind. From what I've read, so long as they don't insert a loaded automatic tensioner, things should stay put, my only worry is can it hang lose on the crankshaft end and jump a tooth there. I think there are some little guides down that end to maybe prevent that, not sure.

I noticed a photo of this that simon took, (a page back) and it looks like it holds tight to the gear teeth at one point and probably won't jump down the bottom.
(but its a big probably if it does jump)
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