That evening, we get to Mogdagachi, this is by far the worst town I have ever been to in Russia. You have to go about 10km down a crappy dirt road to get to the town. But, the town is divided in 2 by the train tracks. The side we can get to easily has no hotel, mostly just some shitty houses & a small army base, & the guys there were pretty much just rude assholes. We are told there is no hotel, then finally we are told there is one, but its on the other side. The only way to get to it is thru a tunnel under the tracks. The problem is, the tunnel is full of water. That wasnít so bad, until we saw a car going thru the tunnel had to go at a crawl, as the road was so broken up, the wheels were falling between rocks, & the water would go over the top of the tires in places. Poly was tired, & refused to try it. Lucky me, I got to ride both bikes thru it.
There was a sliver of pavement on the right side, and I had to go in with the end of the handlebar scraping the wall, my left foot over a hole in the broken pavement about 2 feet deep. It was only about 20 feet of this, so it wasnít too bad, but it did suck, as I was already tired from the riding in the cold/wet all day. We get into the Ďcenterí, all the streets are mud, any pavement was broken up & full of holes. It was quite a depressing place. We found what passed for the local Ďhotelí which was a big assed building that had a room for rent. The old lady there wasnít happy to see us, as she gets paid whether there is a guest or not, so of course she would prefer the option with the least amount of work for her. She did relent & offer us the room, which actually wasnít as bad as we expected.
We walked down to the cafť in the center, we did not blend in at all. Everyone staring at us. Obviously they are not used to strangers, and prefer not to be bothered by others coming to their shitty town. The only people interested were a flock of teenage girls, who followed me around asking questions & wanting to have their picture taken with me. Poly was not too thrilled about this, and was givin them the stink eye, but they didnít seem to mind. Or to be deterred. It was pretty funny. (Poly does not agree)
I couldnít find a garage to park in, so I locked the bikes to the rail on the hotel steps, & covered mine (Poly didnít have a cover) plus I have the motion alarm on mine. The next morning as we got up to leave, the old lady informs us theres a problem with the bikes. We go down, & one of her saddlebags was stolen from the bike during the nite, the straps were cut. SHIT! Iíve been all over Russia, & never had a problem until I get to this shitty town in the middle of nowhere, and I was happy to share this info with the 3 old ladies who had gathered outside. Luckily, the only things in that bag were some tools, t-shirts, & worse of all, Polyís teddy bear. I had gotten it for her several years ago, & she had brought it along, she took it everywhere. (no, I cant explain this, it must be a girl thing) Needless to say, she was PISSED! The old lady wanted to call the cops, but why bother? They would just keep us there for hours filling out some forms that would be shoved in a file cabinet & forgotten, so I just reattached the other bag (the alarm chirping probably kept them from getting to close to that one) and we got the hell out of there. Poly refused the tunnel, so I looked at the map, & saw where the old road headed out, & we went that way. It was about 20km of shit, dirt, mud, holes, etc until we got to the main road, but at least there were no tunnels.
The road to shit town
And the lovely tunnel. It doesnít look bad, but the concrete is all broken up under the water, and there are huge holes. No, I donít know why they donít fill them with gravel or something
My shittown fan club, looking for a way out, Im guessing