Your PM said it felt "loose and sloppy." When I hear that, I think bearings. The most likely is steering stem bearings, but don't rule out wheel bearings. OEM steering stem are loose ball bearings (same as Earles fork). Vech has tapered roller bearings. I seem to remember that you need a spacer for the inner race. Be sure to ask. To check for play, get the front wheel in the air. ( I use 2 peices of 2x10 under the center stand. Tip the bike to one side and push one peice of wood under the raised center stand tang. Then tip the other way and push the other 2x10 under the stand.) Alternately push and pull the forks from near the axle. There should be no free play, but the forks should fall easily to either side. Make sure the steering dampener is loose before checking.
IMPORTANT WARNING: The nuts on the top fork brace need to be torqued to 85 lb/ft. It's important that the wheel is pointed straight ahead and that you apply a counter torque opposite the torque you apply to tighten the nuts. If the wheel is pushed to the steering stops while you tighten, you WILL turn your fork into a hockey stick.
DAMHIK I attach the handle bar risers without the bars. Then you can put a 24 inch extension or breaker bar in the risers to "counter torque."
These forks are almost identical to the /5 forks. This article is pretty in depth http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/fork/title.html
I have found thet if everything is properly aligned, the front axle will slip EASILY in place. It should also spin by hand when all the way in, but nothing tightened. Any bind means something is not aligned.
"There’s probably no better way to go from New York to San Francisco on a motorcycle than on an R90S."
, January 1977 and Mike last night