Well I've fixed it. But I don't really know how and I don't really know if its permanently fixed, as it seems often what is initially fixed undoes it self a few miles later.[err] So the Jury is still out on whether its a permanent fix or not![lol]
Anyway, here's what I did. I refitted the reinforced idle actuator valve pipes. This is just reinforced fuel line hose but has more structural integrity than the OEM one. I tried this before as mentioned in the opening post, but along with cleaning the actuator valve it was where things got real bad, so I refitted the standard ones. But convinced these must be better than the OEM ones I refitted them last night. Before fitting them I bent them in an arc and put the ends down into a cup and softened the hose ends by adding boiling water. This allowed them to slide over the actuator and TB inlets easily and actually form around them as they hardened again.
After some odd rich running last night, I tried to think what could make it run rich. o2 sensor? Maybe but I cant really do anything about that now. So what else is there, the air temp sensor in the air box? Hmm, supposing its dirty and not sensing air temp correctly, would it then richen the fuelling? No real idea but lets have a look at it. So I pull it from the airbox. Kind of reminds me of a MAF sensor! On diesel cars I've had some real good results with cleaning MAFs with brake cleaner or even WD40. I cant see that teh temp sensor is actually dirty, but I'll give it a quick shot of cleaner (never touching it with anything other than spray!). So that's done and the sensor refitted to the airbox.
Can I think of anything else? What about this TPS reset. Never sure about this 5 second procedure which sounds odd, especially compared to a motronic 1150GSset up where you just open the throttle fully once or twice and ride off, but hey who am I to question it. So before I replace the battery I touch the battery leads together to hopefully drain down any memory of any settings. Reconnect battery and do the hold open for 5 seconds and then hold closed for 5 seconds and repeat 5 times in total. Then switch off the ignition. I gather you're supposed to wait 15 seconds before starting but I leave it over night.
This morning I come out and start the bike up and its a nice even idle around 15rpms. I ride off and the bike appears to have more bottom end grunt? I keep riding and pull out onto the motorway and as I open teh throttle I get no 3-4k splutter! 15 miles later I pull into London traffic and here's the acid test, will it idle? It does! Eureka! Not only that it idles every time I pull the clutch in and cut the throttle.[:0] First time its done this since I've had it. I've never been able to really take my hands off the bars as I need to try and catch it as it inevitably stalls, but no more! Down side is listening to it idle with the clutch out it sounds like a toolbox falling down the stairs, but hey ho, an idling bike is more important![lol]
So for now at least I have a bike which is smoother, has seemingly more bottom end grunt and will actually idle of its own accord. I'm happy. :)