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Old 07-06-2012, 08:42 AM   #4
Ginger th wonder dog
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama
Oddometer: 10,541
Originally Posted by manfromthestix;19068942
I've been doing all the work on my BMWs for about 10 years now so I feel more confident and thought WTF, I'll just try this. I ordered the proper seal and a crush washer set from Bob's BMW and had it in my hot little hands in less than 24 hours :clap for about $40 including shipping. Bob's is outstanding, thanks for your help, Matt!

So here we go.


Smear a thin film of oil on the inner lips of the new seal (not the outer edge) and CAREFULLY tap it into place, making sure you get it square and don't tap it in too deep (it should be flush with the housing, like the old one). It goes in pretty easy:

Insert drain plug with new crush washer, fill with new oil (I used Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil of the proper weight), put the fill plug with new crush washer back in, spin the hub around a little to see that everything is working as it should, reinstall the wheel, clean up, wheel the bike in the garage about three minutes ahead of the deluge:

This was the easiest repair/service I have ever done on a BMW and it took less than 45 minutes from start to finish. I did not have to remove the FD unit from the bike and did not have to crack open the case to get it done. I feel like an idiot for all the time, effort, and money I spent getting this done on my RT by the BMW shop.

I hope this is of some help to a few people! Ride, ride, ride!

Hmmmmmm....I believe I see a loose cage rivet at about seven o'clock....I could be wrong.

Also, it appears that you installed the caliper while replacing the seal. Why?

Other than a hammer, did you use any additional tool(s) when installing the new seal?

Nice work...BTW, it appears your rear bleeder hardware is rusty.

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