[QUOTE=braaap!]and what does / would (
think of owners merely 'torquing' up the spokes to the specified value
.... and then believing wheels are good to go?
Wheels (rims, spokes, hubs, lacing.... etc) are a 'black art', just because that little t-wrench clicks off between 5 and 6Nm don't mean everythings awright!!
That's what the monkeys do at the dealers pre-delivery check if yer lucky!..... If in doubt, get em checked out by a Woody, Buchanan.... usw!QUOTE]
i too love nifty gadgets,,,and torque wrenches have their place in my repertoire of tools,,,, i have tried out several versions of the spoke variety and returned them all ,,,what i did get out of them was a sense of what 5-6 Nm felt like ,,,sort of like recalibrating my wrist
and here's why i returned them
because they distract me from paying attention to what is going on in the wheel
because they consume my time looking at their readings
because the klick types klick at your setting but dont say how tight it really is
because the beam type makes me go into contortions to read them accurately so as to avoid paralex
because they are bulky and heavy and slow down my work
because rusted/frozen nipples-spokes give false readings
sooo..KEEP YOUR EYES UPON THE DONUT/s,,,,AND,,,,NOT UPON THE HOLE/s
so what are the donuts????
first ,,,there's location,,,location,,,location,,,the rim HAS to be in the right location relative to the hub/swingarm....and kept there in the truing process
next,,,it has to run true,,laterally/horizontal runout/ determines how much the wheel wobbles/weaves,,,,and longtidudinally/vertical runout/ determines how much it hops and bounces
finally,,,ALL the spokes MUST be doing the SAME amount of work in order for that wheel to perform optimally for you,,,and of course here's where the fun begins
simply reaching in there with your spoke wrench and snugging each one up to 5-6 Nm,,,,along with all the planets lining up for you will get you similar odds of having the above criteria met as winning the lottery
it is one thing to true a wheel that has just been assembled with clean and lubricated components as opposed to one that has been sitting in the elements for years,,,or has been driven in the muck and repeatedly powerwashed,,,,all that grit finds its way between the threads of spoke n nipple,,often rusted up on the back side of the nipple threads,,,all these factors affect your torque reading,,,and if you are concentrating on torque readings you are missing what the wheels components are telling you
a few additional tips:loosen first,then tighten!!!! especially when measuring torque...you want to come up to your reading!!!
check the tone of your spokes,,,,hi pitch means it tighter pulling more weight than the neighboring ones setting it up for premature failure,,,,and of course the lower pitched ones aren't pulling their weight...snug them up..
balance the process between left and right,,, clockwise and counterclockwise to avoid pulling the rim in either direction too much or winding it up into an oblong spiral
hey it's 4:32 am in the rockies,,,,,what in the h___ am idoing here ????