Sounds like the stator alright especially if your instruments were flickering then went dead. The CDI should still run until the last coil fries.
Do you have a multimeter with you? Or can you possibly get access to one? If so, I can walk you through the check procedure. PM me and I will give you my phone number if you like. Failing that I've included the test procedures below. They are posted in Thumpertalk as is my stator replacement tutorial.
If you need a new stator it's an easy replacement and you don't even loose any engine oil while you replace the stator, just lay the bike down on it's right side while you work. Takes about an hour after you have the part pay particular attention to not taking the circlip off the starter clutch assy. If you do you might as well call for someone to pick you up. You will need the proper Allen key and Metric sockets and some red locktite in addition to the stator. I'd purchase the stator from Ricky Stator as they will ship overnight.
Stator Testing procedure HERE:
Replacement Stator HERE:
Stator Replacement procedure HERE:
Don't let the testing scare you. Basically you are checking the three yellow wires (coming from the stator case) against ground. Put the ground wire of the meter in one of the yellow leads and test it against the other two yellows. If you show a direct short in ANY of the three yellows you have a bad stator. If the multimeter checks to infinity on all three the stator is good and you need to move on to the rectifier.
My bet is that it's the stator. I've had three but have worked out what really made them fry. After replacement it is important that you start running Amsoil (or equivalent) 20/50 100%
ester based oil emphasis on the 50 weight.
Oil should be changed every 1000 - 1500 miles NO MORE or it tends to cook onto the lower coils of the stator which contributes to i'ts early demise.
Locktite the three stator bolts in place with red locktite to keep it from vibrating loose (and they will, ask me how I know). This is a common failure in the DRZ.