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Old 08-06-2012, 12:28 PM   #518
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
Hmm, pullers

JR, here's what little I know.

The BMW service cd calls for tool # 12 5 521 in the drawing (not a photo) the tools seems to be a hefty bolt with a pointy end.

the Haynes book suggests the same bmw tool # or "commercially available tool" that looks like a "X" tire iron with threaded ends of various sizes (not socket ends for wheel nuts). Maybe commercially available in the Haynes world, I haven't found anyone selling such a thing yet.

The 22mm x 1.5mm size comes from the BMW disc. The bolt puller would screw into the threaded center of the rotor and push against the end of the crankshaft (similar to an airhead).

YES there are holes in the rotor a normal puller might work with. However, they do not exist on the new rotor, or I should say, "they are filled with screws on the new rotor". And the threaded portion of the hole is actually on the bearing carrier behind the magnetized rotor, the taper that is being pulled off the crankshaft is on the magnetized rotor. So using the basic wheel puller would be working against the carrier and not the rotor it self, and, in the case of the 'new' style rotor, would require removing three big screws.

I haven't yet gotten the big bolt out of the crankshaft. It's a 14mm hex, i have to go buy one. And make the TDC screw to hold the CS. I am assuming the center threads exisit on the OLD rotor, so when I find some big bolt I'll be set.

The suggested bolt style puller seems really simple, if you can locate the right one. Both service manuals require 100 degrees Centigrade of heating on the rotor before the puller will work. Motion pro lists many "flywheel" pullers of this type. some are RH thread and some LH. My new rotor has normally cut threads, my guess is that is Right hand.



Learning moment coming up.....The clutch and stator replacements are really easy, parking lot jobs. This rotor change out is lots more trouble.

As threatened I've got some pictures.......

I did not drain the oil for this cover removal, but the bike is on the side stand, in these pictures from two weeks ago. Right now the oil level is about half and the bike is on the centerstand with the cover off without any oil problems.


these are the stator and regulator connections behind the little cover on the right side. This is a good place to get to the yellow wires from the stator and make diagnostic tests. Cut a few zipties, and fuss with the snap latches on the plastic connectors and the whole mess falls in your hand. There are snap latches on everyone of these connectors, most are hidden from view. the latch on the black plastic connector in my hand is at the top of my finger tip, the lever releases when pushed forward and the connector slides out to the right side. The white plastic connector on top of the black one is similar.


A better pic.


The failed stator. Notice the black crusty stuff in the noon to three postion in this photo. That's about the front of the stator when in place, right behind the headers. Be careful here, the axle for the starter idler gear is stuck in the cover. Mine fell on the ground, be sure to stick it back in the engine before the cover goes on, tappered end out.

The cover is held onto the engine in an odd way after the 14 identical screws are removed. there's a big magnetic attraction between the steel in the stator and magnets in the rotor. Pull firmly straight out, but not so hard that you yank the yellow wires.


Old rotor. Three potential holes for a puller, but, see above. the big bolt in the center needs a 14mm hex tool. See the idler gear and thrust washer are loose where the axle has come out.


the new stator. a nice shiny tan color, it's black now two weeks later. After the screws are removed from the staor and wire clamp, I banged the whole cover and stator on a wooden rail and the stator fell out. BMW specs 10 Nm for the three stator screws. 4Nm for the two wire clamp screws. Loctite 243 on both. There is also a note that the holes in a NEW cover are not tapped, the initial stator installtion cuts new threads. Do not use loctite on a new cover.

More to come when I get more parts apart. bobo
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