Ok so, a little update.
I installed the Shindengen the other day. Sorry no pictures, should have done a write up but was in a hurry,
It's a simple install though, especially with the right crimp tool. I bought mine a while back from VintageConnections.com. Got the Shindengen from roadster cycles, as recommended above. It bolts right up, perfect fit.
Pulled the old connector from the stator off, and crimped the wires directly to the connector for the VR. One less connection is always good, so I also took the VR + & - right to the battery.
This left the old connector on the harness for the VR + open. I've read some reports of people taping over it, but I wasn't happy with this.
It's a very simple style connector, the terminals inside are just non-latching blade style male and female. Just depress the tangs inside and they slide right out.. So that's what I did. Pulled the connector off the harness side, and replaced the old ones with new, less corroded terminals (not that it was that bad before). Pulled the connector off the original VR side, took a piece of wire and crimes new terminals on each end, and stuck em in. I then packed the connector with di-electric and pushed it all together, effectively connecting the two + wires harness side and closing the circuit.
So, did it work? Kinda.
My voltage has risen across the board, so this is good.
14.2 - 14.3 V resting and cool.
14.1 with the fan on.
Looks perfect in the garage.
But on the road, different story.
14.3 under throttle. Good.
14.2 - 14.3 idling. Good.
Fan on, 14.1 idling, even while HOT. Good.
But if I pull that brake lever, while relatively cool, about a .2 V drop. While hot, a full .5 V. Seems high. I'm going to go pull my ABS fuse now and see how it acts. I figure it's got to be the ABS system and not the LED brake light. The 55W high beam only drops the system .1V
Anybody else experiencing a drop from ABS like this? I definitively have a little air in my line, I wonder if this could be a culprit as well?