I see occasional fps fail for other reasons the the contact breakers:
- diode fail: I think the diode sometimes fails BECAUSE of the bad contact-breakers: It gets to do more when the points go bad! Good reason to replace the points before they really go bad! (if you do so, you also have a nice spare/bakc-up if you don't trust electronics 100% (like myself :-) , but I am sure you will leave them home unless you go on a world-trip)
- diode fail due to reverse connection: IF you are stupid enough to reverse connect the fp to the battery, you will immediately blow the diode.
diode-fail 99% gives a short-circuit in pump and usually blows the FP-fuse in the bike-fuse-box.
- fp-rod stuck: This happend to people who drive a lot in wet-salt conditions (like here in holland or germany: Wet-snow and lots of winter-salt on the road). Not that many motorbike drivers out there in these conditions, so not so often seen.
- fp- internal coil burned: When the contact-breakers get stuck the pump is 100% ON. This will overheat the pump and blow the fuse on the bike normally. It also will not happen, because the bike doesn't run without the pump-running and the ECU kills the fuelpump power. But if you OVERsize the fuse and trick the bike (for example by bypassing the pumps fuel-hoses, as an emergency but WITHOUT de-connecting the FP connector....).
often this gives a shot-circuit between any of the electrical connection and the outside metal of the pump.
- Salt/corrosion inside the pump-coil: Also short-circuits to outside metal.
I did see OLD pumps... they do 70 liter/h where a new one does 90l/h , both 3x more then you even need.
btw: IF the pump-rod moves (about 2-3 mm) then you can be quite sure the pump internals are ok.
Dr_Bean screwed with this post 08-31-2012 at 12:15 PM