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Old 09-03-2012, 01:50 PM   #211
charlie264
Beastly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 8,102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Bean View Post
You can measure the coil resistance, but it is not trivial.

- Coil resistance (from blue-black wire to tthe thin wire coming out of the pump, connected to top of braker-points_: ~ 1.6 Ohm
This is very low for most cheap multimeaters. to measure this:
* Put Multimeter in OPhm, lowest rabge (usually 200Ohm range)
* sort-circuit the meter cables by pressing them together and see what the meter says.
* If it is more then 1 Ohm: Forget it... get another meter/change battery etc.
* If the meter says < 1 Ohm: Rember the numer (say 0.6 Ohm).
* now measure the coil of the pump: say you get 2.1 Ohm.
* substract the 'short-circuit value' and you have a 'reasonable' number

Also:
Measure from the blue-balck wire to the metal-outside of the put. This should me 'open'

Don't try to measure 'through' the contact breakers: that will only give you confusing data.

Pump test:
- Kill-swicth OFF
- make sure the contact breakers are in contact (if they are very bad: Clean them with a small file/sandpaper)
- Pump connected to the bike
- fuelpump-switch OK (and correct value)
- Ignition key ON
--> Now switch KILL-switch ON, and the pump rod should move 'outwards' at least 1x.

The ECU (computer) of the bike only keeps the pump active for 5 seconds.
To redo this test: killswicth OFF , and wait till the pump-rod is all the way back and the contact breakers are IN contact again.

IF the pump-rod does NOT move: through pump away

Do not use WD40: the pump has dry-brass bearings, they do not get better from lubrication.
Dr. What’s the circuit inside the pump....I’m getting Zero ohms (quality multitester in its day) closed circuit from black wire from plug and thin black to points....If I put 12v across solenoid wires the rod doesn’t move.
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