Spent a bit of time working on the rear brakes. A while ago I posted over on the Olds Cool Forum
, querying whether the Paralever rear brakes could be improved. Generally the Forums response was unhelpful, but Travelling Sam was able to put me in touch with Simon from ‘Sore Bums Across Asia’, who had modified the brake lever to achieve a better cable pull.
The theory is that the lever in its stock configuration doesn’t have a straight pull on the cable. The eye is about 70 degree to the pivot, so some of the movement is upwards, rather than forward. The recommendation was to cut the eyelet off, turn it around, & re-weld to achieve a pull that is more at 90 degrees to the pivot.
I’d seen a write up on this modification before, but had almost forgotten about it. The posts with the mod had lost their photos, so Simon’s email & pictures were very helpful
The modification is not universally adored in the States. The gurus are of the opinion that brake components should not be welded. My view on this is more pragmatic. I don’t really have a useable rear brake as it stands. At least this mod gives me the capacity to enjoy some braking. I have spent 2 years relying on engine braking and front braking, which in the dirt can be exciting at times.
I did the modification last night. Here’s a photo just before I buttoned everything back up.
I also discovered that the rear brake light can be adjusted. That’s very helpful. The brake light had sometimes stuck on previously. Finally I’ve also adjusted the brake upwards a little, so that I can actuate it when I’m standing. I’m sure this will need some fine tuning.
The Mod was a complete success. I can lock the rear brake now, which was impossible previously.
Tuning Out The Stumble At 100kms
The exhaust valve on the right pot had become noisy. On checking the clearance was wider than it should be. Unfortunately I didn’t measure it. I’m now wondering if I should pull the head. I’ll watch it over the next few rides.
Another suspect was the new fuel cap I put on pre the MMMM. I wondered if it was breathing properly. I replaced it with the chrome temp cap, to see if this would make a difference. Nup.
I have a bunch of spare jets from the RS to try. Standard main jets are 150. I've gone up to 160 to see how it runs. No difference with the stumble, but the pops & bangs are reduced.
Might try the fuel filters next.
I am disappointed that TSS Red Baron has not been able to supply the Yamaha fork bushes in a timely fashion. These should have been here Thurs morning. I’m told that Yamaha NZ have supplied to Red Baron’s Akld headquarters, but that that RB are looking to bulk up the shipment prior to sending this on to Lower Hutt.
Remind me again why I used these guys?