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Old 09-18-2012, 07:40 PM   #76
Slowphil OP
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: home again packing for the next one
Oddometer: 1,640
Thanks to everybody who hoped I was getting better and this was the last of everything - READ ON (in a voice of doom)

headed to Puero Enscondido looking forward to a few days of lazing and relaxing in the sun, decided to heck with the budget and would head down the cuota (toll) road just to get down there. Now when I checked google map it showed cuota sections on both roads heading down, when I checked Guia Roji maps it showed cuotas on both roads and when I looked at itmb map it showed cuota on both roads. Guess what, there was no cuota on the road I went down and no I didn't miss the turn off. As a matter of fact it was a winding twisting road but with good weather it didn't matter it was kind of enjoyable, after a couple of hours I realized it was probably the most dangerous section of road I've ridden on this trip, I must have passed about 15 sections of road where they had just finished cleaning up the landslides that had occured. Got to about 30 kms to the end, came around a curve and there it was, a section of road closed off by landslide and people working at clearing it. No way forward and about 5 hrs back to the nearest hotel

I got talking to a German guy on a tourist bus who had been sitting for half an hour already, apparently as soon as the slide happened the people came from all the little villages with picks and shovels and started clearing it by hand, as the truck drivers arrived they climbed down and joined in.

they worked steady with no straw boss over them

until they dug far enough down that vehicles could start across if they wanted

the truckers who dug were the first ones across which seemed to me to be absolutely fair (and for the record I didn't dig, I would have gotten in their way)

now I should explain, the soils on this road appear to be a one partical size
silt, if you mix this with a small amount of water you will end up with an extremely smooth polished surface with a layer of slick goose snot over it. After the trucks had been over it it was also criss crossed with ruts. Now those that have ridden off road pretty well know whats coming. When it was my turn I stopped short of the mud, studied the situation, gave it some throttle and went like mad across, by my estimation I made it a good 3/4 or 7/8 across before crashing the front wheel into a rut, down I went with my leg underneath, I would say it took less than a second before they were lifting the bike off me but too late, I now have a sprained ankle and twisted knee but 1 1/2 weeks later it's feeling almost back to normal. Sometimes it seems life has it in for you but the recuperation more than made up for it. Got into Puerto Escondido just before sundown so grabbed a reasonably priced hotel 200 pesos on the edge of town

this is what I espied with my little eye in the morning

because my ankle was sore I parked my small backside under the palapa by the pool, sat and drank beer and skyped the ever faithful bride and made her commiserate with me about how tough my life is but finally hunger drove me downtown Puero to have supper

Puerto Escondido downtown in the heat of the afternoon

the restaurant I fixed on for supper

and the very pleasant lady who served me

I had a perfectly delectable mango pollo con arroz

the next day I went downtown by local pickup bus 5 pesos, I'll let Puerto show itself to you

forgot to mention when you order a meal you always get a dish of spicy fish as an hors d'oeuvres, very good too you can't even taste the fish

there's not much fish I like but I do like fresh tuna especially when doused with garlic which doesn't seem to be used much down here

met my neighbour one day but he seemed a bit standoffish and didn't want to talk

my last day there 16th September the hotel owners were up early and were starting to cook a mysterious pot of something but I wasn't sure what it was and am too painfully shy to push my way into things and ask

the end of the day and I was invited down to have some of the delicious soup they prepare every year on this day, I couldn't catch the name of it but the whole family tucked right into it

another sad farewell and I was off down the road to Juchitan de Zaragoza for an over night stop. This place convinced me I needed to get back up into the mountains again, just straight blinding heat

Next: On to San Cristobal de las Casas

Slowphil screwed with this post 09-18-2012 at 07:45 PM
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