As the rain poured down, I studied the map. There seemed to be two choices, either back to Arfoud and hit the small road across to the N10, the main Er Rachidia to Ouarzazate road towards Todra and Dades or back to Rissani and head west on the N12 before turning north to meet the N10 at Tinghir. The N12 won the day. A truly good road with some stunning scenery.
I think I saw eight cars and two lorries on that 60 mile section into Alnif. I stopped in one small village as a sand storm was approaching. Good job I did as we all had to dive inside to take cover. It took two of them to force the door shut! There was also a flash flood as one of the wadis took the storm water away from the mountains across the road.
I arrived in Alnif feeling pretty beat up and exhausted but was delighted to find a great little hotel, the Palmiers, run by Lassiene. €15 per night, comfortable and spotlessly clean room, en suite and a great salad and omelette Berbere. Over dinner, sat at the next table to the Alnif Commandant of Police and local Army Colonel debating security, Lassiene and I discussed many things. He delighted in telling me of the remarkable efficacy of the, "butter that's lived for 30 years", a local remedy for many complaints made, as best as I could understand, by some crone three villages away. So it was that after dinner and having been introduced to Lassiene's extended family who were watching television in one of the back rooms, I had, "the butter that's lived for 30 years" liberally applied and vigorously rubbed into my right knee. Funny, it did feel better although I sensed that I smelled a bit.