My attempt to fix the bad connections between pins and the copper(?) strips of the light cluster printed circuit board seem to have been successful. Where I had intermittent or non-functioning GEN, OIL and NEUTRAL lights before, I now have lights on each time when turning the key. Since it was intermittent before, I'm not ready to say my fix is 100% positive, but several on/off cycles suggest that all is well.
I bought a small, pencil tip soldering iron and solder (resin core?) for electrical use. I bought the solder with the lowest melting point to minimize potential harm to the plastic body of the circuit board/light base while heating the parts. I think the solder is .032" diameter, which was the smallest they had at True Value Hardware, so the solder added to the connection could be kept minimal. I heated the base of the pin, while my wife held the pin from moving with a needlenose plier. I kept checking with the solder against the pin for high enough melting temp, and then added just enough to make a connection from the pin to circuit board strip. Since I had to cut back the plastic cover of the circuit board to expose the strips and potential joint, after I was done I cut a narrow strip of electrical tape to help hold the strips in place. Of course, once the light holders are pressed in they're captured. but I thought it couldn't hurt. I would have taken a picture of the "repair" but my camara doesn't do well on close-up shots.
Thanks for all the advice given to help me through the problem. When it comes to repairs on my /6, I've consulted and read my Clymer manual but sometime the finer points of repair are not addressed, especially in a case like this where the part needed appears to no longer be available.
Now I guess it's on to going through the carb sync process to get a smoother idle.
IBA Member #49541