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Old 10-06-2012, 07:36 PM   #13
1200gsceej OP
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: San Francisco Peninsula
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Don't always build from scratch

I'm familiar with West Marine (although the store that was a mile away closed). I'll remember that when getting new/replacement wire.

Part of the problem is that in many circumstances one will get some form of wiring harness with a purchase (e.g. horn, lights, etc). It often includes a pre-wired relay, shrink-wrapped connectors, enclosed, whatever ... For some (such as me), connecting pre-wired components is doable; assembling from scratch is not (yet).

But I've learned a lot about what I can do to make those connections better.
Thanks again (to all)

Originally Posted by kevin g View Post
To expand on what ScEd said about pre-tinned wire, that is what i use. It can be gotten easily at boat supply stores like West Marine. Military spec wire is always tinned and has many small strands as opposed to fewer large strands in lower grade wire.

A likely cause of the heating in your connection is that the wire was bare copper and oxidized - quickly. Bare copper sucks for corrosion and the oxidized wire has a high resistant at the connection. Copper oxide can grow thick enough to be and insulator.

Even though tinning the wire with solder has its drawbacks I think it is better than bare copper. Crimp connections to bare copper have the same corrosion problems.

If you want to make the best repair replace all of the wiring with marine grade tinned wire.
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