View Single Post
Old 10-06-2012, 11:01 PM   #19
disston's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 10,220
The Airheads do vibrate more than I think they should. But they all do it I think. Since I have only ever been on any Airhead that was mine and that I tuned, except once, I've always been paranoid that this is a personal problem. Well, I decided a long time ago I wouldn't let that stop me and so i ride the bike I built and tuned.

Mine vibrates mostly between 3000 and 4000 rpm. And idle is not always very smooth, but sometimes it's better than others. If I get tired of the racket the trans makes in neutral at a light I will pull the clutch in. But mostly I just let it rattle away.

You should of heard them when we had the Turkey valves. On top of the rattle at idle there was a honking noise from the engine breather.

I think the /2s were truly smooth.

Check the eccentric adjustment of the caliper mounting. The pins also need to be cleaned and greased. The pins are extracted from under the cap on the bottom of the fork tube. The eccentric is held in place by a stout spring. To get it out after removing the cap and the spring a small bolt (8mm maybe) is threaded into the end, it's drilled and threaded for this, and the eccentric is pulled out. If it's been a long time since these were pulled the grease can be very dry and the part hard to remove. Use ordinary wheel bearing grease.

The adjustment is explained better in the manual than I think I can tell it but I don't do it the way the manual says to anyway. The manual has something about an involved process of marking the rotor and adjusting the eccentric so the brake pads wipe the markings off. All really nice I guess. I just watch how the parts are moving and set the caliper to it's closest position. My method may not be correct.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.

disston screwed with this post 10-06-2012 at 11:17 PM
disston is online now   Reply With Quote