Can I give you my advice ? As I own an R65 RT (special offer in 1982 from French importer based on an RT fairing added to a plain R65).
This bike was heavily used up to 160 000 km then let aside for 10 years, been run on and off since today.
I decided to remove the fairing this year and put it back into use.
As on you bike, the battery, even if new, had big difficulties starting the bike. I was allowed only one stroke of the starter. So if I did not succeed to start it on the first stroke, I had to go to work by foot... I complained to the battery seller and he offered a new one. Same behavior. I tester all the charging circuit but to no avail. Then I removed the fairing and saw that the big positive lead going out of the motor casing had been destroyed by the bar which hold the two fairing sides to the frame !!! I had been lucky because the fairing is plastic, and the frame is well painted so earthing was not good. Otherwise...... Now with the new cable in place, the battery charges very well and keep it. I have a lot of starting strokes available and all is well. I suggest you remove your tank and have a peek... you may get an horror view...
Last but not least, I was quite unable to tune the engine. Even after thoroughsly cleaning the carbs and replacing all O-rings and diaphragms. I asked a competent BMW dealer and he told me to check the advance timing. bingo, it was at full. And could not adjust it properly. so I opened the can to see that the advance mechanism was seized at full stroke. A cleaning and lubricating later, the bike ran very fine.... Bear in mind that the advance springs are very delicate and difficult to source... so do not use your biggest hammer to dismantle the bean can....
Hope this helps !
P.S. I will spend some holidays next April near Rotorua...
OT means TDC so you should have the timing at idle set around 6° BEFORE this. If you do not have an S mark you have to use a timing light with advance settings. The Z mark means full advance and should only show around 3000 RPM. The start of advance (moving from S to Z) occurs at around 1500 RPM. As the bean can is the same for quite every bike using it, advance settings should be the same. Check either the user manual or the maintenance manual or Clymer or Haynes for the exact settings for your bike.
georgesgiralt screwed with this post 10-14-2012 at 03:44 AM
Reason: I forgot something.