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Old 10-17-2012, 09:52 PM   #1042
Studly Adventurer
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Somewhere out West
Oddometer: 635
First of all a BIG thanks for doing this webjester.

Originally Posted by webjester View Post
Just to reiterate, the central control electronic measures the current to the low/high beam and disables the output if the current is either too low or too high to warn of a failed bulb or prevent circuit damage, respectively (remember, this bike does not have fuses). It does that by measuring the voltage across a shunt inside the module and only allows a certain voltage window.
On a 2011 it shuts the circuit down on an overload condition. -IF- I leave the resistor out completely (relay operated low side with a resistor in parallel) the ECU still leaves power on to the circuit energizing the relay, but I get a 'Lampf' error. So the low side -trigger point- is just for the 'Lampf' error message.

Originally Posted by webjester View Post
B. Using a relay to switch battery directly to the lamp will work if you have a resistor in parallel to the relay coil of about 14.2V/0.86A = 16 Ohms to satisfy the minimum threshold. Maybe 15 Ohms to be on the safe side. At 14.2V this resistor "consumes" 14.2Vx14.2V/15Ohms = 13.5Watts. Make sure that the resistor has adequate cooling surface. A 50W resistor can only handle 50W with a huge heatsink!!! Consider using a 15W or 18W automotive lamp instead (you know how hot that gets! The resistor is no different).
I have a 50W resistor mounted to aluminum mounting plate under the beak and in-between the ballasts - that way it would have air flow to help keep it cool. What I found out using the min spec resistor (16 ohms) is that (I used blade connectors for an 'quick change' option) over time the connections got a little dirty - the resistance actually increased and started giving me intermittent 'Lampf' errors. So I ditched that resistor / setup and went to a 10 ohm resistor with posi-locks and everything is good again. That resistor is - very narrowly- wrapped in silicone tape near both ends just to get it away from any hardware so that it could radiate the heat and not warp the ballasts. So yes - I am supporting your viewpoint of not using the 16 ohm resistor.

If I had a choice I'd really like to get rid of the relay setup for the low side. BUT I really like the output of the Morimoto's (I still have the original set of 1Off's sitting on the shelf). I have read that the higher end of HID OEM's use a lower initial amp draw and still have the quick startup. Good luck finding those cheap. The only ones that are somewhat close are the newer Morimoto's - and the Denso's. But there are even 'overseas' knockoffs of the Denso's too. Arrrggg....

Originally Posted by webjester View Post
Finally, there is one other option I am going to investigate when I have some more time (not for the faint hearted ). As mentioned earlier the central controller uses a shunt to measure the current. If I could reduce that shunt by, say 20%, the thresholds for the current would increase by 25%. But there are a bunch of "If's". I would assume that the module is sealed against water intrusion etc. - We'll see. I'll report back if this is feasible (you can really fuck up your bike if something goes wrong ). Anybody know off hand where this module is hiding??
Ehhhh.... have a few beers and thing about that one again. I have no doubt your capable, but is it REALLY worth it?
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