View Single Post
Old 10-18-2012, 07:05 PM   #133
Kommando
Grumpy Young Man
 
Kommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,070
To use front signals as marker lights, you can buy dual-filament sockets to fit your signals. NAPA usually can get a pretty wide selection of this stuff. You could also buy dual-filament signals. I bought some stock-looking dual-filament signals on Ebay, got some CycleGear adapters to connect the flasher filament wires (w/bullet connectors) to the stock wiring harness, and spliced the marker filament wire into the tail-light circuit. My tail/brake bulb and my signal bulbs are LEDs, so I don't worry about over-taxing the circuit. I also don't worry about overheating the signal housings, as LEDs stay much cooler than incandescent bulbs. I can also turn the engine off, turn the ignition to the "Park" position, and leave the bike lit up on the side of a dark road for a considerable time without killing the battery.

If using LED bulbs in stock-type housings, get some rated for around 1W or better. The lesser LED bulbs are not very bright.

You could also get some amber LED strips from Autozone/Advance/Pepboys/etc., and stick them on your handguards. Again, wire them into your tail-light circuit and they will work in the "Park" ignition position. I'd also use an LED tail/brake bulb, so you don't over-tax the tail circuit. The stock 1157 tail/brake bulb is about a 3W/23W bulb, so a 1W/3W tail/brake LED, and 1W (x2) marker lights will be similar to stock wattage requirements on the tail circuit. You'll actually use approx. 20W less than stock when sitting at a stoplight with the brake lit. My LED brake bulb also flashes 3x before going solid.

LED bulbs like this are available all over the web. I got mine from www.superbrightleds.com.
Kommando is offline   Reply With Quote