View Single Post
Old 10-21-2012, 01:59 PM   #9
Aspiring human
Zombie_Stomp's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,236
give any honda part numbers to Zanottis in pennsylvania. The web page where you can price check may be hard to find or no longer up and running, but TRUST ME on this one, they have THE BEST prices on OEM honda parts. I've ordered from quite a few places. I'd recommend just getting together all your part numbers you need and just ordering from them. The timing chain will line up the marks regardless of whether it's stretched x amount, it's a matter of sprocket tooth position. The tensioner will take up some slack, it's just a matter of how much slack it CAN take up before rattling. Same reason for replacing the spring and installing it gently. I have a method of installation for that too:

Depress the spring with vice grips, taking care not to chew up the rubbery plastic surface of the tensioner unit by protecting it with a layer of something soft. Apply a zip tie to the spring. Drop it in and install the pin. carefully cut the zip tie and fish it out. You will have had to consider how you put the zip tie on so that it can be pulled out from between where the spring touches the timing chain tunnel in the cylinder, so that it comes out in one piece instead of leaving behind a piece. Also a fish boning knife works well for cutting it, something long and slender. Wire has been used for this job also, but makes me more nervous with the potential for leaving behind metal.

When ordering the timing chain I'd recommend one that is a Borg Warner (a manufacturer). That's what Honda uses. I think the letter stamps on that ebay one are not the same as the oem. There are "private label" 'aftermarket' versions of the borg warner chain out there for less $, just check the letter stamps on the links to be sure of what you're getting.

It's definitely a strange anomaly for the chain slider to break like that. If no foreign particle was lodged in there, it could have been simply a defect or weakness in the part. Very strange. Glad you got it, and that the shift lever will be tightly clamped, maybe even loctited at the threads to prevent the kind of spline stripping that caused the welding to happen.

One more thing: Shaft seals! Replace them ALL! Especially the shifter one since heat had to have been created while you were cutting it, and burrs scraping it might have happened when you pulled it through. Others I can think of are the countershaft (sprocket output driveshaft), kick starter, and the decompression lever on the rocker box. Do them all and you'll never have another oil leak.

Speaking of leaks, some non-hardening gasket sealant will be your best bet when you are applying the base gasket on the cylinder. I used silicone, which hardens, and had one blow out. The non-hardening will maybe be silicone too, it just cures to more of a soft gel. Never had a problem after that.

Once it's all sealed up, you'll be able to use even synthetic oil if you want with no leaks. :)
1982 4x4 longbed, a rolling daily driver work-in-progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.

Zombie_Stomp screwed with this post 10-21-2012 at 02:06 PM
Zombie_Stomp is offline   Reply With Quote