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Old 10-22-2012, 06:14 PM   #21
Gustavo.Ramos
Studly Adventurer
 
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Accross the pond
Oddometer: 852
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post
Great, thanks for the update. So many only read so far and then post.

So what are your thoughts on a bike that has had these items replaces "NEW" and it still makes these sounds?



Thanks.
Clogged oil line, faulty oil pump, incorrect oil specification (not another oil thread....), etc... a mix of these....

Quote:
Originally Posted by keener View Post
So it was due to low oil level.

But its surprising because I only added about half a litter at most.
Half a liter is the volume between Low and High oil level in the dipstick. Running at low level is not bad. Running below Low level is bad and can cause oil starvation. I try to keep between L / H, but i've noticed at low level my 950 did not make any unusual rattling, but these bikes have a tendency to behave differently on each specimem.... carefull not covering up a problem with a temporary fix such as adding oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
I get the bike home, and install the updated pressure regulator assembly (not just the piston), and new cam chains because mine were only measuring ~4mm at the cover screw. Along with fresh oil, I haven't seen the oil pressure light once (when actually running), and the idle is MUCH quieter. The CCT plugs still measured less than 7mm so I'm going to get guides and install them at some point in the future..
Somewhere along the way, KTM superseeded the CCT bolt, with a longer one (+/- >3mm long) that made measuring the distance to the cylinder wall slightly higher than with the original bolts, keeping the distance between 6 and 11 mms, thus rulling out the need to replace camchains.

Here


My 05 950 had the smaller bolts, your's is a 04....i believe its part 60036008100.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
Higher temp = lower viscosity ("thinner") oil, so it will flow more easily, meaning if the pressure relief valve isn't working correctly (the spring is too short.. haven't taken the old one apart yet to check) more oil volume will bypass the circuit (than if the oil was thick/cold). Keep in mind that at a given RPM the oil pump delivers a constant rate of flow, and that volume won't be changed by viscosity nearly as much as a leaking relief valve would. Raise the rpms, and therefore raise the flow of oil from the pump, and the oil leaking through the bypass valve becomes a lower percentage of the total supplied by the pump, so you now have enough left over volume to keep the pressure up (despite the volume "leaking" past the valve) to keep the light from flickering and keep the CCTs pressurized.
Precisely!

From what i've been learning with this great bike, always start from the far simplest, stupidiest simple possibility, and then rule out accordingly until you get to the weirdest, far fetched scenerio ever imagined... And always be ready to stand corrected.
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