Please follow each step of the advice -already given- starting with battery terminal cleaning/tightening. This means effectively cleaning the wires and batt terminals until they are shinny. Post the battery voltage that you find over-night before starting out, without charging. If the engine cranks, post the cranking voltage.
If you don't have a decent digital multi-meter then get one. You may be annoyed or un-interested in electrical but that is part of riding. At least you are home where you can get help. I think that you can resolve this if you want to, otherwise be prepared for lengthy delays and high repair bill. It is a mistake to assume things like "battery is new therefore it must be o.k." 90% of the time the fault is right in the battery or terminals.
Not mentioned yet: Disconnect every after-market wired device including all after-market connections to the original harness. If you have any aux lighting, GPS, radar, whatever, disconnect it all. Disconnect any HID lamps and ballasts. Pull the starter cover and unplug the convenience outlet. Inspect the outlet for a salt bridge.
The ignition switch harness can be disconnected (un-plugged) from the under the tank. It is possible to jumper the mc without the ignition switch. Alternately you can buy a replacement or properly test and repair the one you have.
If the fuel pump cycling re-occurs then note the condition of RID and dash indicators while in event.
If you do all the things listed in this thread so far then the problem will likely resolve. Do not skip things because they seem un-important.
You should remove the tank to check the harness, especially where it passes under the battery tray as already mentioned. See the sharp edge impacting the harness? Clip the wire ties. This will allow you to flex the harness.