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Old 11-03-2012, 09:01 PM   #245
Studly Adventurer
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Central MA
Oddometer: 529
I've never used either style before. All I know is that I've got a TON of brush, stumps, and logs to sort through.
This is exactly what I've used mine for. I was going to buy the root rake style as well, for the same reasons you mentioned, however, I got the chance to operate a root rake style on a friends tractor for a couple days, and one thing I noticed, was that if I was trying to pick up a pile of logs, and a larger diameter log was on the top of the pile, the clamshell style grapple would clamp down on it first, and the smaller logs underneath would simply fall out, or not be held tightly. With this style, your relying on the clamping pressure, rather than gravity, to hold and secure the load.
If you have any rocks on your property (and who doesn't in NH?) you will have a problem holding multiple rocks in the grapple, it will clamp down on the one larger rock, and the rest will fall out. However, the advantage of this style is the true "raking" action. You can rake debris and sift through dirt better with this style, but that is about all you will do better.

The standard grapple style that I have, will scoop up under the load you are trying to pick up, for instance that same load of logs, and gravity will hold it on the grapple, and the grapple arms will do more 'securing' than actual 'holding'.
Think of trying to pick up a 45lb weight in the gym, you have to squeeze it with your fingers if you pick it up from the top, whereas if you support it from the bottom, it's a whole lot easier to hold onto. (maybe not the perfect example, but you get the point )
To rake with this style grapple, you need to "dump" the grapple so the tines are pointing down into the ground. This works well and I use this method very often.
You also mentioned firewood, this is where this grapple style shines. You can't move piles of split wood, or rounds, with a clamshell style. you can carry a lot of firewood on the standard grapple style that I have, you can picture this pretty easily I'm sure.
One thing to keep in mind regarding rocks and firewood, is if the tine spacing is wider than the item your carrying, it will obviously fall through. My tine spacing is 9" and once in a while I'll lose a few pieces of firewood, so I'm going to weld in another tine between each, making the spacing 4.5". WR Long offered to weld these in at first, but I said no, and thought if I need to, I can do it down the road, I should have just had him do it.

Take a look at this thread for some pics of my grapple and various uses of it, especially firewood.

I cleared this area with nothing but my tractor, grapple, and box blade. I only cut a hand full of trees with my chainsaw, most were pushed over. Another advantage of this style grapple, is that you can use the longer tines to "dig" at the stump if the tree is being difficult to push over. You can also dig out rocks as well.

This whole area was just as thick with trees as the background is. I piled entire trees to burn later this winter "maybe a good bonfire party for inmates )

I can certainly say that for what your describing, you would be absolutely delighted with this style grapple...honestly.

he 60" is a bit on a small side, but with all the nooks and crannies to get into, it seemed like the right idea.
That's a good reason for a 60". If you buy a tractor without a bush hog, and want to try my 72" out to see if it's too big or a good fit, I'd be happy to let you, you can't hurt these heavy duty brush hogs. Mine weighs 1200lbs and has a 130hp gearbox.

fancy! Can't justify hydo scarifiers for the use this one will get
That is exactly what I thought, this box blade is $4k brand new, but all it is, is a bunch of thick steel, not much can go wrong with them. I found this one on Ebay in TEXAS for $800, even with $500 shipping fees I still have less into it than a new medium duty box blade. Then again, you have to look for deals, and it's not as much fun as looking for bikes for sale.

He wanted to install a rear remote with a control lever off the rear
Ya, I don't like that either, I like the thumb switch right on the FEL handle. There are three ways to do it, the 3rd function valve, an electric diverter valve, and run to the rear remotes. Best and most expensive first, and cheapest and least convenient listed last.

If that's the case give me a shout. Even if I've got a machine by then I'd be up for checking it out and grabbing a beer
Sounds like a plan.
KTM 250XC-W, '13 990A
“What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race.”
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