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Old 11-10-2012, 01:52 AM   #76
Zombie_Stomp
Aspiring human
 
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by LandsVW View Post
Thank you!

Tonight I put the carbs on. Probably the biggest pain in the butt since I started this reassembly. Probably has something to do with 40 degree rubber boots and those carbs are pretty tight in between frame and engine.

Also, anyone have pictures of the hose routing for carbs and/or throttle cable routing? I made my best guess, but since I didn't disassemble, I may be wrong... Exhaust is next!
Congrats.

There is (I think) a general cable routing diagram in the XL600 manual (Honda Factory) that shows a front view of the cables' general positions. The clutch is easy, then the decompression ends up being trial-and-error (especially where the position of the lever on the bars is concerned, I liked it on the low side under the clutch, as far toward center as it can go), and the throttle twistgrip is positioned with the cable outlets on top rather than on the front side, this leaves the room for the the kill switch to be facing towards the rider like a clock face. Whatever way you can route them with the least amount of interference with each other or binding when steering ends up being correct. Get comfortable and play with them in this regard before tightening and closing it all up. Get it running and play with the bars with the cowl off and as much stuff apart. It becomes very difficult to decide if it is 'as-it-came-from-the-factory' in regards to all of the cables' positions. Just has to meet the above criteria. Do look for that Honda Factory manual illustration though, and there is a link to a free .PDF manual somewhere in The XL600 thread.

Before I forget: yes, the carbs are a pain to fit to the intake manifold and airbox boots on this bike. The one thing that helped ease the pain for me was to remove the airbox bolts and pull the airbox as far back as possible, then to push the whole thing forward as I applied the airbox boots to the rear of the carbs. It frees up substantial space. Another trick I was advised of, but never learned to apply in practice was the use of brake fluid, yes, brake fluid, not brake cleaner, to the airbox rubber boots to soften them up to more of their original condion and flexibility. Definitely seems worth a shot. Even after they're fitted, could prove useful as a rubber conditioner.
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

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Zombie_Stomp screwed with this post 11-10-2012 at 02:06 AM
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