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Old 11-11-2012, 04:36 PM   #28
V-rider
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Southeast Michigan
Oddometer: 161
I know that this is an old thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
getting conflicting ideas about what's going on in this motor.

2 sets of pics, 1st set of pics is br9eix run for about 1.5 hours. 2nd set is br8eg run for 5 minutes just putting around to get some color on it. both are identical jetting, ambient temperature/elevation. on the first set of pics, the float level was bit low. also, timing was more retarded (just 1 degree less advance).


i'm thinking the first plug (which still ran fine) was a bit too cold, and a little rich. i'm assuming the carbon deposits all over is just due to plug too cold. there are no seal leaks.

2nd set of pics still a little rch somewhere, maybe hot enough of a plug now to burn deposits off.

1st plug.







2nd plug





...but I thought I would just comment since I work for the company (NGK) that makes the plugs you are using.

Those deposits are not a heat range problem. Looks like too much oil. Are you sure you didn't have a bad crank seal on the wet (tranny oil) side?

The heat rating only affects the temperature of the center electrode ceramic - not the side electrode. There are heavy oil carbon deposits all over the firing end of that plug. It's not a spark plug or heat range problem.

I see that you mentioned that the spark seems fine. It's hard to tell without actually measuring the voltage required to jump the gap. If by chance you had a really weak spark then it could affect the combustion - but it's kind of rare to have enough spark to light the mixture but not do it well enough that it would create those heavy deposits (Hopefully that sentence makes sense).

I would guess that you will still have those heavy deposits even if your ignition system was in tip-top shape. The spark itself will not clean off that kind of crud. The spark intensity and the heat range are completely separate things and do not affect each other at all. (Auto manufacturers have tried and found that there is no measurable correlation.) A "hotter" spark does not heat the end of the spark plug. In conventional ignition systems, a "hotter" spark only occurs when you increase the voltage required to jump the gap. For example, widening the gap will bring the voltage level up because it takes more voltage to jump the gap. But the temperature of the center electrode ceramic will not change.

That being said, there are ways to help prevent fouling by running the spark over the edge of the ceramic, as on a semi-surface discharge spark plug. But that will not really help your problem.

If you ever see this post I would like to find out what you did to fix it.
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