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Old 11-11-2012, 07:09 PM   #71
Ulyses OP
Beastly Adventurer
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Oddometer: 1,160
Oaxaca and onward....

Rolled into Oaxaca and stopped at an Autozone on the outskirts to pick up some gear oil for the chains and a little degreaser to clean up the bikes. As I was degreasing my engine (all over the Autozone parking lot, take that hippies!) I noticed that my oil cooler was loose. An closer inspection, I realized that the lugs were cracked and loose! Snap! The red shows where the cracks are:

We made a b-line for "el centro" and after looking at several Hostels and Hotels, settled on one that gave us beautiful rooms (albeit with a common bathroom) for only 250 pesos! And it was only a block from the Cathedral. There was no secure parking, but they opened the doors wide for us and let us bring our bikes into the courtyard.

As soon as we had been installed in our rooms, I took off my oil cooler and got down to business!

Step one: clean off all of the grease and oil and dirt with gasoline, soap, and water. Step two: mix up some JB weld and apply a liberal dose all around the lugs. Step three: check the JB weld every five minutes for the next four hours to make sure it's staying where it's supposed to. What a pain in the ass.....

In any event, I finally got it all set up to dry and left it overnight.

In the morning it looked pretty good, but I figured I would give it most of the rest of the day to dry. Ed Zachtamundo still needed to find that Unicorn Blood for his bike, and we really liked the hotel we were staying in, so we decided to stay an extra day. Ed eventually found some Motor-X 20W-60 and decided that that was as close to Unicorn Blood as he was going to get.

Meanwhile, I explored downtown Oaxaca. Saw the Cathedral:

And an older building (I believe it was some sort of convent) that had been turned into a museum:

And after the JB weld had set up,I took a quick spin up to the ruins of Monte Alban, another ancient stone city only six kilometers outside of Oaxaca.

The next day, we woke up with slight hangovers and took our time getting out of town. We finally got on the road at about noon and started dropping down into the desert as we neared the ocean. It started getting hot! We were way too used to being up on the Altiplano above 6,000 feet.

Spent the night in a decent hotel for 150 pesos. There was no hot water and the fan sounded like it was going to fall apart and come crashing down on your face, but it was clean and there was internet and we were able to park the bikes in the courtyard again. It's always fun to ride your motorcycle right through a hotel office......

Today we woke up relatively early and made a big push for the border town of Tapachula. We were down at 250 feet above sea level for pretty much the entire day and I shed my riding gear for more comfortable attire: t-shirt and jeans with my big US cavalry belt buckle....which I kept hidden under my shirt. Why do Canadians get to go flashing their patriotic paraphernalia everywhere?

In any event, we saw how they mow the grass near the highway in Mexico:

We were stopped by soldiers at a checkpoint and I got asked for the third time to open my panniers.....I guess that's what I get for using 40mm grenade ammo cans for panniers....the soldiers can always spot them a mile off. I guess they think I'm smuggling about 40 pounds of high explosives around on my dirt bike.

And we saw a nice Mexican family out for a Sunday ride.

It always makes me feel better about my heavily overladen bike when I see things like this.

Final stop tonight was at the "Banjercito" where we received our $400 deposit back since we hadn't sold our bikes in Mexico. Found a cheap hotel Tapachula with aire condicionado and crashed. Tomorrow we say "Adiós Mexico!".
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