Originally Posted by mfp4073
To Wire, et all,
Thanks for your help. FINALLY got a new rotor in and bike is running again. Need to do a once over for valve set, carb sync, and timing/points set and will get into that sat.
I cant imagine fixing this bike without this boards help. Hopefully down the road I can pay it back to those I meet over the years in person and online....its the only real way i can ever pay yall back!!!!
A few final questions. Do rotors go out a bit at a time...meaning do they get LESS efficient and then finally stop working or are they one day they work and next day they fail? Next, when I got my new brushes in, they didnt have any insulation on the leads. My old brushes did, so I put some shrink wrap on them because it looked like they needed to be insulation from the housing. Thoughts?
wirespokes was on the money for prior instructions!
rotors can go out all sorts of ways ... best is total failure so isolating problem is easier. intermittent problems are always the worst. for instance rotors can work fine when being tested, then fail after heating up.
generally rotors has highest failure rates. spare diode boards are worth having around too. voltage regulators are easily tested by full fielding. a spare charging indicator bulb is good to have around too. bulb is part of charging circuit.
after bike is running .. if your system is charging, voltage will be 13.4 to 14.2v with engine rev'd into mid range. when running if your volts reads slightly lower than battery resting voltage. then it's not charging.
from resting overnight ... assuming you have a lead acid battery... if your battery reads 12.85v .. then your battery has a full charge.
your bike runs off your battery, then alternator charges battery back up. sounds basic and it is... but some folks don't grasp why after putting a new fully charged battery... bike runs perfect for a short while then goes dead again. battery gets blamed, when charging system is at fault, not battery.