The day after Halloween i packed up some gear and headed back to the beach ..
The other day they said they had some extra boards and this totally rad retro wetsuit i could use.
They were 3 guys from OB that worked together as guides for a canoeing company in La Jolla in San Diego,
I couldnt pass the chance to camp with them and to come for a surf.
After a day in the sun, nothing like settling in with a big bottle of cerveza and a camp fire.
The guy on the right is Jorge..
I met him earlier on in the day and we chatted in my spanglish and i asked if he had any fish i could buy off him, he said he could try getting some almejas (clams) when the tide was a little lower.
He lives in a small shack with no electricity somewhere in the foothills in this valley and he comes by and sells people wood for the fire.
The other guys know him from previous trips coming down, he would sell them wood chat briefly and be on his way.
Later that evening he came back with these giant things.. and we threw them into the coals. YuM!
He moved back here around 20years ago after spending his adolescent years in Los Angeles as a gang banger..
His back was covered in tats to prove it, (not that he wanted to prove anything)
He spent some years in some heavy prisons in California and had 2 strikes to his name and they gave him the ultimatum to go back to Mexico or face lifetime imprisonment 'when', not if they busted him again..
He stayed and we all chatted for hours over beers and almejas, he shared all sorts of stories.
His english is preety good actually.
He was a very friendly guy, not at all threatening . He preferred his life now and he liked helping people rather than hurting people.
The guys from SD said that was the first time in the time they had been frequenting this spot that he actually hung out .
Dont think it will be the last.
Jorge came back to pick up his stuff say bye .. what a champ.
After the morning surf session..
Packing it in.
It was a tradition for the boys to leave a candle with the virgin of guatalupe to thank her for keeping them safe and to ensure good waves for the next time they come down.