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Old 12-08-2012, 12:00 PM   #245
backdrifter OP
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
I can't believe Thanksgiving was the last time I updated this thread!

Well, I know I've said it so many times that no one is even listening anymore, but after many trial and tribulations, I finally truely have a rolling chassis!

As you may have seen (I started a separate thread for help), I had a tick in the front bearing when it was all assembled last time. Long story short, the bore of the front hub was damaged/enlarged when I had the old bearing races removed, and the new ones didn't fit tightly enough. After many suggestions, I decided to go this route:



It is Permatex Bearing Mount for Relaxed Fits, and bonds metals with gaps up to 15 thousandths. I cleaned everything up, mounted the races again, this time coated with the Permatex, and let it sit for a day. Went out the next day, 24 hours later, and tried to spin the outer race with my hand. It was tough, but I was able to move it. Damn, a failure.

I spoke with my buddy that used to work at Loctite and he suggested that I may need a primer to make the aluminum "active", which would help the bonding significantly. I still may go that route, but instead I decided to try a combination of suggestions that I had received, and I added some shims in between the bore and the bearing race and also applied the permatex. I didn't have any shimstock, so I cut up some feeler gauges that I had lying around. The shims looked like this (I still have these because .008" was too large - I ended up using .006" shims and it was a perfect, very tight fit):



Shimmed and Permatexed:



I added a black mark with permanent marker on the bearing race and the outside of the hub. I'll keep an eye on this and make sure that the bearing race doesn't spin in the hub. If it does, I'll go back to the start and try another solution.



I let it sit for another 24 hours and mounted it up this morning. Mounted back up and ready to go:



And the other side:



I shook the tire and felt for any play - there was none what-so-ever. Confident, I went ahead and torqued the axle nut and clamp nut to spec.

Then removed the rear wheel and removed 99% of the grease that I had put on the final drive splines (thanks, Big Bamboo, for the advice!), and then reassembled the rear wheel. then I torqued the rear axle and clamp nut to spec.



As far as I'm concerned, this will be the last time for a while I mess with the wheels/tires. I think they're all set up, and now it's time to turn my attention to the engine.

I think I've said this way too many times too, but I *should* finally get to the clutch and rear main seal tomorrow. Here's to hoping!

In the mean-time, I decided to go ahead and clean up this part of the engine (not sure what you'd call it - the alternator cover?):



I've noticed this on lots of other /5's - this piece of the engine always looks worse than the rest. I used my tried-and-true method of the stainless steel brush attachment and my drill, but it definitely did not clean up as well as the other parts I've done. Can anyone tell me why? Is this aluminum piece a different grade than the others? It certainly seems to oxidize more. Anyway, it did clean up, and I don't think I will be able to tell the difference between it and the rest of the engine once I apply the Rub 'N Buff.





That was about it. I also cleaned up the clutch and break levers, but no photos yet. I still need to remove the clutch and front break perches and sand and paint them. I probalby should've powdercoated them, and may still in the future, but for now paint will have to do.

I was going to start adding some of the the auxilliary equipment - coils, voltage regulator, starter relay, etc, but it just would have been busy work and I figured some of that stuff might make it more difficult to get the engine back in the frame, which I hope very much to be attempting in the near future.

Hopefully more tomorrow!
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1973 BMW R60/5:
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backdrifter screwed with this post 12-08-2012 at 12:40 PM
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