The goal: make it clean under the "bonnet" and remove all the unwanted pieces of hoses and flaps and valves and plastic junk that we donīt really need to be there, to have the bike running normally.
Here is a link to a few good men, who have done a splended job of gathering information to the matter of LC8 and the "stuff that is not needed".
Now - they are talking about the US versions specifically. No big difference - just minor details on the parts maybe and some routing of pipes. Here I give the short version of the SAP removal with pictures and I assure You all, the outcome is very nice. No more flaps - no more canisters and the air intake will be clean and the engine can work without restrictions by the "treehuggers". If someone were to remove the SAP system and leave the stock exhaust on the bike - You would probably get soon the "heat is killing" me feeling from beneath Your bottom. The SAP system helps the CAT-s in the original pipes to reduce exhaust gases that are bad for the environment on one hand and also with that keeps them clean. IE- running the exhaust pipes hot but not burning hot. Remove the SAP and Youīll have to face the inevitable clogging of the KAT elements and the ongoing heat problem. A normal internal combustion engine produces about 50ish percent efficient work and the rest goes to overcome friction and plain simply the heat. If You have stock pipes on - and lets say You are running on 50% of the engine power (35KW) the bike is producing around 10-15KW heat through the pipes. If they have a lot of packpressure and good sealing (like the stock ones) the heat is not given away but stored and it causes problems for You as a rider and the bike, as a machine, that needs cooling. So get rid of them!
I got rid of the stock pipes and replaced them with 2-into-1 system and one light Djelcevic pipe on the end.
Now to the SAP removing itself. It consist basically of 3 valves that are operated by electricity, airducts and some small breathers at the end. Where the system is connected to the engine heads, it has some small additional "flaps" . These need to get plugged. Many use the "shields" that are specially made for that, out of aluminum or fabricate these themselves. I just took the damn things off, plugged them properly with heavy duty engine seal and put them back on.
now the vacuum lines - there are many to go around and on the rear side of the engine is a metal mount to what some parts of the SAP is attached to. I remove that alltogether - about 300g of metal junk. There are vacuum ports on the engine that need to be plugged (pef. on the left side of the engine) and the vacuum lines routed on the right hand side of the motor. I used a soft zip -tie to make them hand on the side and then use them - when needed - for the balancing operations.
OK - here are some pictures.
Here is the airbox with carburettors right before removal. The front carb was full of oil and spillage from the breather tube from left side of the engine case.
here the oil spillage clearly visible. The air filter was actually heavy from oil and dripping slightly.
Here the carbs hung, upside down, just to make room for the job. (really no need to remove them completely.
Right on top of the rear spring and slighly to the left is the metal mount for the rear and biggest stuff of SAP.
Threw that just away.
Be careful to cover the engine intakes - stuff can fall in and it is not a pretty sight when metal rumbles around the engine.
I used cleaner caps to prevent that.
Here is the sight from the top of the carb. These pipe ends that (stick out) are connected to the system by air hoses. The carb "caps" will be plugged. I used the heavy duty rubber just to plug them (with engine sealant, just to be sure).
The airbox will have 2 big holes on the sides accordingly.
I used rubber caps to plug them and again with sealant.
Here is one of the valve connector, that I just tied to the cables and kept clean.
On the engine it is the mount for one of the SAP flaps that can be plugged or used some fancy alu cover for it.
Here are the vacuum lines on the right side of the engine. Do not forget to plug them or the bike will have some serious problems running.
And this here, is some of the stuff that got taken off the bike whilst removing the SAP.
Canīt show You pics of the canisterectomy or flapendectomy, because someone already did them.
This crap all together weighs a good 1Kg.
Whilst the engine was so "open" as it was - it was really easy to get the spark plugs out. And Yes, I needed the KTM special tool to get them out. Never-ever had that problem with my toolkit before but the plug tool on the KTM is really thin walled special tool.
The plugs looked bad. So badly warn and damaged in all ways that I have never seen on my bikes before. Probably from the factory and had been running on bad gasoline or whatever. Anyhow - they are cheap and easy to replace and I do it usually every 10thousand Km. I just like to be sure about them.
The normal types are NGK - CR8EK. cost about 5 eur piece.
And this was it for the SAP-removal, where crap was removed, engine bay cleaned and the oil spillage washed.
I had some free time on my hands one night, so I set the fuel pump also back and now it comes the time to test the engine again (still need coolant and oil) and then go further with the electrical problems, that still need sorting....