Before I get on with the other jazz, I am opting to do the valving on my bike myself....again.
Heck, I'm also going to have a stab at the rear shock as well. I spent the day saturday cleaning & disassembling the forks, so I could get all the hard data on the valves & all the assorted info.
Here is what the stock stacks look like:
Base Valve Compression:
Mid Valve Rebound:
Mid Valve Compression:
It's funny how much the graphs and plots can tell you, and then see how different shim changes will affect things. Unfortunately I have 1 major problem. I know basically what I want the bike to feel like. I can't however just copy that bikes shim stacks, as the valves are completely different. The more I read on things, the more I feel like I have more questions. It sounds like Yamaha put the wrong length springs in the fork, which apparently keeps it a bit too low in the stroke, along with some cavitation issues related to the Inner Chamber floating portions. Go figure that they addressed these issues in 2006.
I hate admitting this, but I feel I really want this thing to feel plush how the 2012 KTM 200XC-W I rode felt. Granted, it wasn't good over 60mph (that's fine), and when I rode that same bike at Byron MX, it felt more harsh over the bumps at higher speed. Both things I completely expect for something that is valved for woods instead of MX or high speed 2-track.
I know right now that for MX, my bike is a little on the softer side of the valving, and I'd say that for woods it just needs that bit of slow speed to help keep from deflecting in the rocks\ruts and help keep the front end feeling a bit more planted.
I'm up for suggestions. I really shot myself in the foot & blew a 50% off deal that Pro-Action had just after black friday. Coulda had fork\shock done for 250$. I know I can do the changes myself, its just whether or not I'm doing the right changes....