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Old 12-13-2012, 11:15 PM   #11
Joined: Dec 2012
Oddometer: 1
this is a follow up on the riva 125 choke problem.
took out the spring in the center between the two plungers.

then put a small chip in between the end of the wax thing and the plastic pusher that it fits into.
the size of the chip was chosen so that when the choke is put back on and pushed flush against the body of the carb, it is just touching the plungers.

in other words, it does not push the plungers in any more than they are already. but is still touching them.
then put the spring back in between the plungers.

disconnected the wire connected to the wax thing.
when the wax thing is completely screwed in, the plungers are pushed in as far as they would be if there was no spring in there.
when the wax thing is unscrewed, the out pushrod is pushed away from the cam, while the plunger spring is pushing the plungers out.
so in effect, when unscrewed a bit, the position is in cold position.
when completely screwed in, the position is in warm position.

the result is a manual choke using the existing automatic choke which is shit to begin with.
if you still have trouble starting when cold, it is probably because the carb is not working well.

another method you can use to get from cold to warm is a hair dryer for a few minutes, blown onto the carb.

my experience is that my scoot refused to start anymore.
now, it still does not start when cold, but when warm, it runs great and starts easily whereas before it would not even start or run when warm.

my guess is that if my carb was in better shape, it would start when cold also.
it does not help that it is winter time in new york state.

if i was in a warmer climate, it might even start when cold.

anyway, at least it is not stuck in cold postion anymore. and by screwing and unscrewing the outer assembly, i can manually change it from cold to warm position on the choke.

and i did not have to buy a new choke or carb.
it runs great when warm, like it used to before the choke started to fail.

also, it looks a lot tougher, when the rear side panels are removed. : 0 )

also, disabled the ignition switch as part of the brake pedal by jumping the wires together. didn't take long to do that.
also disabled the side stand kill switch ..... just by unscrewing it and screwing it back on with only one side attached so that the stand does not touch it.

would like to move the foot pegs up towards the front to have a place to put feet while riding.
haven't figured that one out yet.

also would like to convert one of the switches to cut out the head lamp manually. any tips ?

also, would like to modify the bright switch to have a middle position which includes both low beam and high beam at the same time.
i think this might be as simple as removing a spring inside the switch.

i noticed that while riding, if i have the high beam on, if i move the switch toward the low beam, it can run both high and low at the same time, it provides much better visibility than either alone.

any tips ? i am thinking it must be something with a spring inside the switch.

also, would like to attach some kind of ratchet to the accelerator, so that it can lock into place and be sort of a manual cruise control.... so that you don't have to be constantly trying to maintain the same speed by hand.

another tip, my riva xc125 has a rear luggage box mounted onto a rack holder.
if you remove the luggage box, the scooter becomes a lot less stable on the road.
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