Originally Posted by Britome
Ok... I thought I was proficient until you start talking volt meter on the zebra con to the 5.3rd power. I am humbled.
When I get to the bike ill compare your post to whatnot can see. Thx for helping.
Aw, c'mon - courage! If you handle wrenches, you surely can deal with an electrical meter. You'll have no trouble.
In my mind, the biggest problem for you will be to find the connector. The diagram shows it just ahead of the top of rear shock, either zipped to frame crossbar or to a wire guide. Look for a 2-wire connector with the yellow/yellow-black colors mentioned above.
To test: plug (DELICATELY) an ohmmeter (continuity tester) into the part going toward the brake switch. Make sure you are certain about which part you test. Operate foot brake, circuit should change state, open/close.
If that fails, you could try checking the connection going toward the ZFE computer: use some very thin wire to (DELICATELY) short out the connector; the brake light should come on.
Remember that the problem could be completely elsewhere; this is just one of the items I'd check. After all, your son was trashing the bike around, there are many items that could be subjected to damage.
The clue for me is that your brake light is always on. The light is controlled by the chassis computer, ZFE, which senses the lever switches and turns on the light. This is unrelated to ABS computer, which operates by sensing fluid pressure (it's a bit more complicated, but you get the idea).
Regarding the test set: it's best to use a DMM (digital multimeter) because the sense current is limited and you are minimizing the risk of damage if you plug it into a wrong circuit. A handheld analog multimeter is next best thing. NEVER use a 12v test light
- these use own battery and can allow a lot of current. If you touch a wrong circuit, you could burn it out.
I hope this helps. R.