Originally Posted by Voltaire
I bought a bean can 336 about 4 years ago, but ended up using a pre bean motor so had the local cam expert convert a 308 to 336, which included making a set of 'masters'
More recently got him to convert a R65 cam to 336 as well for a 500 race motor project.....and yes the phasing was taken into account....
You can see where material has been added.
Out of curiosity I put the vernier across the lobes and yes there is a taper.
The 336 in the R90 runs ok but I have not been able to get a good idle, not really an issue in a race bike, pulls really well up to the rev limiters cut out 7500. I used to use the tach but they read about 500 rpm high from memory, with the Ignitech you can read the RPM off the laptop during set up.
Did you have your 336's ground straight up or advanced 3*? I have no experience getting 336's timed straight up to idle. Advanced 3* I have gotten good idles out of three that I have set up and I have seen good idles out of other 336's as well. I would start with making sure your valves aren't leaking AT ALL. I sure would be sure and time copied grinds to in order to make sure what you got!
Why set your rev limiter so low? Piston speed is super safe until you are real close to 9000rpm. If your valves aren't floating and they shouldn't be with titanium spring retainers, rev it higher for more power. If it isn't making more power up there you still might be able to use the over rev to your advantage at some tracks. 336's have good usable over rev.