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Old 12-31-2012, 02:58 PM   #383
BergDonk OP
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,811
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Were relays added because of the +80% bulb? How many Watts is that bulb? Anything much higher than 55 Watt can MELT bulb plug and wiring.
Another reason I like the HID ... they run cool.

For my single bulb 35 Watt HID install I did not have to run any wires anywhere, no relays. I simply plugged into H-4 ... the HID ignitor and ballast all live in headlight cowl. No extra wiring to short, abrade, get pulled or melt. If my HID should ever fail, its 5 minutes to pull cowl, swap out HID bulb for standard bulb.
The relays were fitted to improve the performance of the standard bulb, which was replaced with the + 80%. '+' series bulbs are more light for the same wattage, so + 80% is 80% more light than the stock H4 for the same 55/60 watts. You can now get + 100% which are even better on paper, and perhaps in the dark too. Because of inconsistencies in the way these things are measured, a good brand bulb gives some confidence. I like the Philips + 80s because they work as advertised. Some cheaper ones I tried didn't seem to be any brighter than standard bulbs. I have them in my 4 wheelers, and the 1400GTR too. You can never have enough light out here to help spotting and dodging wildlife at night.

It seems the Philips are now + 100%:

Lighting performance is improved by reducing the voltage drop to the light and this is done by removing as many switches and connections as possible, using heavier gauge wire than stock, and having as direct and short length of cable from the battery as you can get. Part of the equation is to have high current relays too. These are rated at 30A, so less drop across the relay at the 5A or so that a H4 pulls.

As noted above, mounting the relays here facilitates the above objective, and its space that's available, and its adjacent to the headlight fuses and the wiring is there too. It just made sense to me.

Then I fitted the HID, so I don't need it, unless I revert back to a QH bulb. But its there, and it works. If I wanted to save a few grams weight, I could pull it out, but for the moment its fine. The relays do add another point of failure, so its arguably ultimately a less reliable solution, but I've been doing it this way on my road bikes for 40 years without issue. Small sample I know

And the space might be useful for something else for others, electrical or otherwise. Using self tappers to mount the relays, or whatever, means limited or no fabrication is necessary, and screwing them into the airbox at the corner means no obstructions inside to jag knuckles or foam on.

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post

Thanks for the pics and comments on starter removal/service. I'd like to know a way to service the starter without removal, in situ ... you alluded to this but weren't sure if it can be done. Any way to do it?

Anyone know?

The end cap of the starter will definitely come off in situ as confirmed by ER70S-2 above. Others have reported doing it, and as I discovered, its all that needs to happen as the front bearing is a needle lubed by the gearbox. This wasn't clear to me from the other reports I'd read. One reason to remove it is to remove any crud thats accumulated there under the starter. I had dirt, a few rocks, some leaf and stick matter, and a piece of mirror that might have arrived there after I broke a rhs mirror when it slapped a passing tree branch, dunno. There is also a drain hole that could get blocked, so you get access to that too.

And if you have to remove the oil line and CCT to get the end cap off, the starter is ready to come out anyway, assuming it can get past both the exhaust and carb with them still in place.

Removing the oil line is simple, 3 banjo bolts, just keep it clean and crud out while its open, and don't over tighten them when its time.

The CCT should not be feared either, as long as you have TDCC, it'll be fine. Make sure you have anew gasket just in case, then you won't need it.

You remove it by undoing the two mounting screws then it comes off. It may be stuck to the gasket, as mine was, so a light tap with a soft hammer freed it up. As it comes out, the plunger will extend trying to the tension the chain some more.

When reassembling it, you need to compress the plunger and turn the screw under the cap when doing it. When its right in, a small extra turn will lock it. Once its back in place, release the screw and you hear the plunger extend out to the tensioner blade and all good, easy.

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BergDonk screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 09:44 PM
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