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Old 01-04-2013, 03:28 PM   #12
mark0ne OP
Ralle-Moto Adventure
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: central coast NSW
Oddometer: 112
Great to see you guys are interested

I dont have long thismorning to post to much as its Mark's 50th birthday today! So I will keep this one quick!

MUD GUARD FITMENT
The clamp was finished to the end of stage 1 so we now spend a bit of time fitting the front guard to it while still in the machine. If we take it out first you will never get it back to the same spot so then everything ends up out of whack! The key to machining is holding the job and moving the part the least with the least amount of setups.

When we went to fit the guard there were a couple of spots we tickled as you can see in this pic. (yes it out of the machine but I didnt get any photo's of this in the machine!) We milled the small grooves around the bolt mounts and then put some chamfers on the fork cylinders.



The front guard now fits on with only a small trim of some plastic on the guard, its only very small but at least its not replacing the guard for 200 odd bucks!! I will post some picks of that mod soon.

STAGE 2 MACHINING THE TOP SIDE
To machine the top side of the clamp is slightly more involved as a set of soft jaws need to be machined up to hold the complicated shape of the underside. Soft jaws can be straight forward and some can be a pain in the butt these ones were somewhere in between!

The top side also had quite a few changes as we went along, mainly because the way we were thinking changes as the part takes shape. Many times you can design something on screen but when its in your hand you can see things that dont make sense on a computer!!

The photo's here are of the 1st part, I will post photos of the 2nd peice later.





As you can see the between the Solid Works drawings in my first post and these pics there are pretty big differences in the front face as we decided after having the part to look at we can fit the brakeline plumbing into the clamp no problem......... Well it was a bit of a mission because we had to reprogram much of stage 1 also

The reason we orginally didnt put the plumbing through the clamp was that if you look at how we designed the top bracing upper line would not work and then when the lower lines needed to be drilled they would clash with the ball joint, so this was where we said we will need to use different lines which is not a massive issue but its still a bit of a pain to us looking for an outside supplier and also the extra work for the customer not to mention that the standard setup is actually very good except for the lack of strength!

How we ended up doing it is we have put a pocket for the brakeline to poke down from the top and then connect to an almost standard position - with the added material around the holes it is still much stronger than other available clamps.

To make it possible also is the use of a 4th axis on the machine rather than angle jigs. This keeps it all one setup for drilling on each side which makes matching the holes up extremely accurate with no miss match!

The brace design we have over the top and out to the front was quite tricky to achieve with the plumbing but it is worth every extra minute.... or day of programing!! The cross drilling photos will be up soon as it will be the next part of the story after the making of the jigs and fixtures!

ANOTHER QUICK QUESTION?????
Would you prefer to have the ball joint......
a - Remove and reinstall yourself
b - Exchange setup where you send your clamp back we do it for you then send back to you - will cost you the freight
c - pay an extra $150 to have a new genuine ball joint installed in the billet clamp

*option C is a guesstimate price as I have found them in the US for $130 odd and then with some shipping here would be $150 I would think. ( we will install for free)*
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