The quote for $280- was from Motohansa in Sydney, Australia.
I obtained it around 3 years ago when I bought my G/S , and noticed a fair bit of play at the wheel rim.
The drive will fit into a USPS $50- flat rate box to Oz but it would probably cost more than twice that for return postage
I decided to let my drive run, and 100,000 km on it isnt much worse, so I assume it was just set up wrong, not worn out.
Three stud G/S final drives are hard to find and usually expensive, but I finally found a ''good used " spare on US Ebay for $200.00.
I checked it out for play in the bearing, it felt good and it was put on the shelf to be used when the play in my existing drive started to increase.
However, I read a post somewhere by someone asking how hard it should be to turn a good final drive, and when I checked this one to see if I could help found out mine was stiff too.
Slackening off the 8? bolts on the bearing carrier slackened off the drive bearing too, and as this was a needle roller drive which should have zero preload I surmised the bearing had been shimmed wrong, and pulled it apart.
It has the later 19 ball deep groove bearing so I assume it has been rebuilt at some time. The bearing feels slightly rough and will be replaced together with the bronze spacer on the other side which shows more wear than would be expected on a unloaded spacer.
For a couple of years some oilhead final drives came new from the factory with between 8 and 12 thou to much preload, and most failed between 10,000 and 30,000 km, so it is possible that my drive has seen a few years light use since it was rebuilt.
If the guy who parted out the bike checked the play with the wheel still on he probably wouldn't notice the stiffness, same as the factory and the dealers didnt notice the stiff oilhead drives, so I have accepted that he sold it in good faith and will replace the bearing and spacer at my cost.
The bearings are half list from Motorworks in England, $50- or so and with another $20- for the shim and spacer it will still be a cheap drive as the only other one I saw, on German Ebay, went for over EU500- , which is more than $600-.
The oilhead guys ended up measuring the bearing clearance by temporary refitting the carrier with tank repair epoxy strip in the shim space, and I will use this method as it seems to have worked for them, when checked against setting with the proper tool.
Then I bumped into this guy who has replaced the large deep groove ball bearing with a taper roller and convinced me I should do the same !