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Old 01-07-2013, 04:03 PM   #84
0theories OP
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Eugene, OR
Oddometer: 299
01/02/2012 A loop into the mountains.

Since Spencer had to go back to work and Mary had plans with friends (that fell through as we were going to meet up with them in Comala), Randy and I decided to ride a loop through the mountains to Comala, then north to a volcano (outside La Yerbabuena) and a coffee plantation, then back south the fast way. The morning was overcast but dry, and after a prompting from Spencer via phone call from work, we finally motivated to get out of the house and on our way.

Hunting for photos.

Found a spot (most scenic overlooks are blocked by trees).

We took Rt. 86 which was one of the curviest, most fun roads I have ridden in Mexico to date. It wound it's way northwest over to Colima (becoming Rt. 8 after Minatitlan).


From Colima it was just a few kilometers north to this quaint little town with cobblestone streets and restaurants that will bring you small plates of food (sort of like tapas) when you order drinks. When we got there we promptly parked in a no parking zone and went to eat. The policeman was nice enough to ask us to move (instead of handing out tickets) and even found us better spots right by the restaurant. Great guy, who later corrected us as we were riding down the wrong way on a one-way street.

Comala streets.

Comala cathedral.

We got a couple of beers and were brought a few platters of goodies (although one was boiled pig “leather" [read: skin]) which was not appetizing in the least. Apparently they were supposed to keep bringing food while we sat there, but the caveat was that you had to finish what they brought. Not knowing this, we declined to eat the whole plate of pig skin, so no more food came and after a while we left.

From Comala we headed north up another superb twistie road and then east onto a cobblestone/dirt road that wound its way to La Yerbabuena.

Randy on cobblestone/brick.

Gratuitous bike shot.

This sleepy little village was mostly shut down as it was a weekday and no tourist buses were en route. After circling the village looking for a coffee plantation (all closed) we took a dirt road up to the volcano. Many curves later we arrived at a locked gate with a sign in Spanish that I interpreted (perhaps incorrectly) as saying “Prohibited! Health personnel only...” plus a bunch more writing. We looked around then left (but later found out from some friendly kids that we could have just climbed over the gate and beyond was the coffee plantation we were seeking as well as the “Guardian Tree” with magical properties of protection). I was pretty bummed I missed that as big, old trees are my favorite thing in the world.

Rain is in the air.

We headed back as the sky was gathering clouds. Before reaching Comala again, there is a spot in the road called (unimaginatively) “Magic Road”. Apparently if you stop and place your vehicle in neutral, it will roll up hill instead of down. Something to do with: a) magic b) a magnetic field or c) optical illusion.

Zona Magica:

Randy rolling uphill (maybe).

After another stop in Comala (which was much busier now) for coffee, we took the fast, toll road back to Manzanillo and encountered a fierce, unseasonal rainstorm 10 Kms from “home”. As Mary later put it, “the sky opened up” on us. The yard was flooded with 6 inches of standing water and the thought that crossed my mind was “the end of the world came a few days late”.
Enthusiastically skeptical...
KLR650, WR250x

Oregon to Panama RR (Guatemala actually...)
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