I've started doing my own valves- done them 3x, so far. I started out by posting in the regional forum to find other owners near me, then had a 'tech day', inviting folks over to my home to wrench on bikes. I offered food in exchange for someone helping me work through the valve adjust process. It worked!
The process isn't that difficult. It's a bit of a chore to get down to the valves- pull body work, pull tanks, pull radiator loosen oil tank, pull air box and carbs, then you're finally ready to pull the valve covers. Once you're there, rotate the crank to find TDC on the appropriate cylinder, then carefully remove the cam bridges and dig in.
Tools- this can all be done with basic hand tools. Buying the 'crank locking tool' from KTM might be a good idea. I know people have made their own using an appropriate sized piece of metric all-thread or a long bolt, but I just coughed up the $10 or whatever. The large hex-drive socket (a massive allen wrench) to turn the crank can be found in local auto parts places- I found mine in an AutoZone or something similar. Came as a set, it's something like a 12mm or 14mm. Might also think about getting one of those magnetic parts grabbers (extendable antenna with a magnet on the end) for pulling the shims out of the buckets (sometimes they 'stick' because of oil) or finding parts you dropped.
Oh yeah- when you pull the carbs, stuff something down in to the intake bores to prevent parts from falling in.
BE VERY CAREFUL REINSTALLING/TIGHTENING THE CAM BRIDGES. The material is very easy to cross-thread/strip, and it's not a cheap process to have them helicoiled. And it's embarassing.
The forums are a great place for info, and I'm sure there are plenty of people who will chime in with advice/guidance. My suggestion is to get a piece of foam-core project board before you start. As you pull a part off, sketch the part's shape on the board and poke holes for the bolts in the appropriate positions. When you're reassembling, I've found it really helps me keep track of all the bolts, I know exactly where each one goes and I know if I've missed anything. There are a couple parts that use different sized fasteners- lower oil tank uses longer (?) bolts than the upper mounts use. It's a good way to keep everything straight.
Bottom line- it's not that hard, it's pretty straight forward, and if you can do it, it'll save you $$ do DIY rather than paying shop rates. Plus you're learning more about your beast.