Replace the battery? Go to Radio Shack and get a cheap multimeter. Check batt voltage at the battery. Hit the starter. If the batt voltage drops very much below ten volts THEN you need a new battery. Static battery voltage is almost a useless test. Most bad batteries will charge up to 13 volts but can't deal with any load. More expensive multimeters have an amp gauge but in a lot of cases a test light will do the job of an amp meter. That or a voltage drop test which in many ways is the same thing as a amp draw test.
Check and clean your connectors? Don't forget to check the wires too! Worn insulation. Just that tiny nick right were it happens to be rubbing on something? If it's a hot wire that IS at least part of the trouble. Are the wires hard right by the connectors for an inch or two or even further up the wire? The wire has been over loaded and needs replacing. Wires that have been too hot don't carry an electrical load like they should. Your bike has a few electrical wires that get over heated regularly. Namely the B+and auxiliary diode board ground wires. Typically, they need replaced every 25K to 50k miles if you want to maintain optimum charging.
Static testing rotors? If it tested open it's open but they are very often bad and still test good. How? The centrifugal force of spinning moves things! A good connection can open up when it is spinning or some of the wires can rub together and cause a coil to coil short thusly taking part of the winding out of the equation. Some people advise that if the charge light is coming on it can't be the rotor. Wrong!
Brushes usually last well over 100,000 miles from what I have seen. I have never seen a rotor's slip rings that need cleaning if the brushes were good. I guess if it sat for a long time or was hardly ever ridden?
supershaft screwed with this post 01-17-2013 at 03:49 PM