Thread: Pucker moment
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:57 AM   #24
Tobz's Avatar
Joined: May 2009
Location: WI
Oddometer: 311
In my experence, I like the "V" due to the combined attributes of feedback, grip, and potential rotor life. (Rotor life yet to be determined but should be better than full sintered) This opinion is based on direct compairion to EBC kevlar organic pads, and even new OEM BMW pads on the same bike. In my opinion, with ATE brakes proper caliper angle set up and pad break-in (I always use a rotor hone) are more important factors in acheiving stopping power than pad compound selection. The pattern of the rotor hone and lack of glaze really helps new pads bed in. I then make numerors lines on the rotor with a marker and make small angle adjustments untill the pad wipes off the line evenly across the entire rotor with light lever pressure. A small turn can make a big differnce and a pad that isn't hitting the rotor square just isn't going to grip very well. If you find your setting not staying set, a new caliper adjuster tension spring is less than $5, and maybe replace the o-ring while you're at it. They will never be a monobloc Brembo, but mine now works pretty well for a 76 that still has the MC under the tank.

I use HH pads on my oilhead GSA but wouldn't consider them on an airhead with OEM ATE brakes as they would have a voracious appitite for old school rotors. I don't beleve EBC even makes the FA22 in an HH.
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